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sure its ok to clean your butts off and then post a video of your completly lame efforts and total lack of responsibility ...have not any of you 2 pricks seen any of the recent conversations on leaving boulders in their original status ? do you guys ever wonder why there is still moss hanginf over ,any of the incredible problems on austria ..sure its ok to clea upa bit but you could have climbed that thing with only a hold cleaned at the top ... posting a dumb video only hurts the red river george coalition ...anyone who sees it sees that we climbers have a complete lack of respect for the micro enviroment duh .... most every boulderer has had to clean a bit here or there ....but that was just down right stupid ... and posting the video if moronic ..... yeah yeah i know our goverment builds roads clears forest drops bombs turns yosemite into a tourist trap .... but we climbers are supposed to show some respect ....or at least thats what most in our community try to do... why the hell would you 2 show such a lack of it and hurt the very coalition that has provided acess to many areas in the red river george ?????? answer me that ? take you silly little tiny boulder prob vid and shove it up yer yin yang

darkstar wrote:sure its ok to clean your butts off and then post a video of your completly lame efforts and total lack of responsibility ...have not any of you 2 pricks seen any of the recent conversations on leaving boulders in their original status ? do you guys ever wonder why there is still moss hanginf over ,any of the incredible problems on austria ..sure its ok to clea upa bit but you could have climbed that thing with only a hold cleaned at the top ... posting a dumb video only hurts the red river george coalition ...anyone who sees it sees that we climbers have a complete lack of respect for the micro enviroment duh .... most every boulderer has had to clean a bit here or there ....but that was just down right stupid ... and posting the video if moronic ..... yeah yeah i know our goverment builds roads clears forest drops bombs turns yosemite into a tourist trap .... but we climbers are supposed to show some respect ....or at least thats what most in our community try to do... why the hell would you 2 show such a lack of it and hurt the very coalition that has provided acess to many areas in the red river george ?????? answer me that ? take you silly little tiny boulder prob vid and shove it up yer yin yang

ahahaha busted a gut.

I originaly posted the Kentucky Video link not the Spring Cleaning. Can I help if others search futher on my website to find the "Spring Cleaning" video? That problem is in Eastern Canada and has nothing to do with the Gorge or the Coalition. LOL

Did you read this post from the start or just read part of it on your coffee break after having a pissing match with your boss?

www.beta-source.com is an independent site bassed out of Eastern Canada. The Kentucky video is from a roadtrip we did down there two years ago. Spring Cleaning is another story half way accross North America from where you are.

Every area has different standards. You might not like nailpolish route names on the rock but the french sure do. Are you going to tell them they are hurting the Coalition?

darkstar,

if you didn't notice...my name is ...Canada climber girl..... (Though I see you haven't been around this forum long based on your sign up date, so don't know who I am or where I'm from.)

hense..Canadian, and if you look further, you'll see that I'm in Canada, and that I said that I know where that boulder is. It is about 45 minute drive from my house, and likely about a 23 hour drive from yours.

I would never clean boulders like that in your neck of the woods. I have complete respect for your ethics and route development Policies.

There are only about 50-75 rock climbers in our Province (land area nearly as big as your state of Maine) all together and our one big crag has about 300 routes (awesome ones I might add) And a few smaller ones have 10-20 routes each. All at least 1.5 hour drives apart. There are maybe 20 decent boulders scattered across several hundred miles, so when we find a new one, we clean it and climb it. The demographic and geography is very different here.

canadaclimbergirl wrote: There are maybe 20 decent boulders scattered across several hundred miles, so when we find a new one, we clean it and climb it. The demographic and geography is very different here.

That's sad. I know you guys have access problems just as serious as those down here. Going to town on a boulder out in the middle of nowhere IMO is just as problematic. I'm not here to judge Canadian standards, but I'm suggesting that you could learn from American mistakes! You should be so lucky as to have so much wilderness left! When I lived in Arizona, yeah we'd hike miles in the mountains just to find "it" too, but when we did, we treated the place with respect, because we knew it was a privelege for us to even be out there.

Plus, if those guys willing to do that for 2 moves of pulling, what happens when they go on their US roadtrip and hit areas like North Carolina, still littered with rock no one has touched, with classic lines everywhere? They don't respect the rock there, why would they respect it here? (not talking about you, talking about them)

Most seriously, while we point and laugh at a couple gumbies pulling carpets of moss from a boulder, some land manager, private owner, or USFS bureaucrat is looking at it too, and they are not amused. They don't know where it is, all they know is the guys in the video are "climbers."

now i know you are canadian i have many friends in onterio and in bc as well .... all i can say is pathetic...sorry i used harsh words but most often their the only ones that get heard ... yeah i exagerated a bit as di the cleaners .... you can still climb the prob only just clean it alittle [[[[[[[[[[[[cant you see that the moss adds to the beauty of the boulder]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]] ...while gardening a few small limbs may be ok ... you are destroying a [[very small]] i grant you that ... micro cosom ...and this looks very bad for climbing in general besides ... why clean when you can climb

okay,

first of all, you guys know nothing about this area. And you know nothing about these 'gumbies' you speak of. Both who happen to be good friends of mine and aren't gumbies. Both have been climbing for 10 years or more and send hard...V8+. if you called them gumbies because the route in the video was V2, you are way off.

You think that they'll come to your area and abuse it? Do you think they are complete redneck morons or something? Give me a break. they both just got back from HorsePens in March. They were in Bishop 2 years ago, and the year before that in Hueco. As a matter of Fact, one of them even has a cameo in the 'free Hueco' climbing movie. They have climbed all over Canada, and many other places in the US too. They are respectful climbers. Just like me. They go to other areas, respect the policies and climb what is available to them.

Yes, we do (somewhat) have access issues like you do in the US. (though not as severe as our country isn't run by Mr. Bush(thank god)) I sit on the Board of Directors for one of the provincial bodies that looks after access and route development as well as many other issues. I am on several other commitees that are involved in similar things for rock and ice climbing.

I have been cleaning and developing areas for a long time and I always treat areas with respect. I climb in the US several times a year. this year I have already gone to red rocks, Bar Harbour, Clifton ME and have trips planned to North Conway and the Gunks (both places I've been before). I love climbing in your areas and respect them. Thanks though for assuming my friends and I don't.

this boulder in question is a 40 min bushwack from the nearest bit of civilzation. you couldn't even stand up in front of it without getting stuck on alder bushes, burdocks and tree limbs. Was their cleaning initiative a little excessive? perhaps. I'm not argueing that. What i'd like though is to not be bashed for something I have no part it anyways. In any case, there is no established trail to the boulder and only a hand ful of climbers know where it is. otherwise no one has ever been there, nor would they ever have a reason to go there.

Give me a break and just enjoy the video. if you don't like it. don't watch it.

I'm not going to bash you or your friends or your climbing ethics since I don't know a thing about you. Sheesh for all I know..you might lead on preplaced trad gear and drive a toyota 4-runner that burns enough gas to heat several homes.

Like Tourist said...in France (and Quebec) they paint the names and grades of the routes at the start of the climb. Not your way of doing things is it? respectful? maybe not, but it is their way.

Dude,

All we have to go on is the video! I dont know or care if they are the Pope and Josune Bereziartu, they deserve some blasting for that kind of idiocy, _prima facie_! What else are we supposed to gather from it? If I make video of me swinging a cat by its tail (which, I would NEVER do of course), what should a reasonable person think of me? Would they want me taking care of their cat? Hahaha.

It doesn't matter where it happened. The world is too small for that. Where you there in Fontainebleau when a troubled Frenchman destroyed Karma, Boucherie, Fatman, Gourmandise and Carnage? Neither was I. Should we care? Hell yes, irrespective of the difference in our "ethics". Is Yosemite my home crag? No. Do I know everyone and every route there? No. Should I be concerned about the tons of poop and trash left on the walls? I think so.

I'm suggesting that you, and your buddies try to understand the impact a little video can have, no matter where it happens. For Gods sake, at the very least, if you are going to completely ruin a beautiful boulder in the middle of nowhere, just don't show anyone about it!

akornylak wrote:Dude,

All we have to go on is the video! I dont know or care if they are the Pope and Josune Bereziartu, they deserve some blasting for that kind of idiocy, _prima facie_! What else are we supposed to gather from it? If I make video of me swinging a cat by its tail (which, I would NEVER do of course), what should a reasonable person think of me? Would they want me taking care of their cat? Hahaha.

It doesn't matter where it happened. The world is too small for that. Where you there in Fontainebleau when a troubled Frenchman destroyed Karma, Boucherie, Fatman, Gourmandise and Carnage? Neither was I. Should we care? Hell yes, irrespective of the difference in our "ethics". Is Yosemite my home crag? No. Do I know everyone and every route there? No. Should I be concerned about the tons of poop and trash left on the walls? I think so.

I'm suggesting that you, and your buddies try to understand the impact a little video can have, no matter where it happens. For Gods sake, at the very least, if you are going to completely ruin a beautiful boulder in the middle of nowhere, just don't show anyone about it!

First of all..it is dudette to you...

second, I just told you I respect everywhere. I DIDN'T MAKE THE VIDEO. nor do I clean like that when I do clean problems.

I didn't say I don't understand the impact that the video 'could' have. You didn't ask me that. all you did was bash me and 'those two guys'.

perhaps have a conversation with me instead of just screaming at me and you'll have more success with what you're saying.

i was going to say "so what if some climbers in canada cut down ten shrubs to climb a boulder in the woods," but then i saw the rock they were cleaning and realized it really was a waste: of time, effort, and plant life. why would you spend all day working on a not-so-steep boulder you can reach the top of from the ground?

automated wrote:i was going to say "so what if some climbers in canada cut down ten shrubs to climb a boulder in the woods," but then i saw the rock they were cleaning and realized it really was a waste: of time, effort, and plant life. why would you spend all day working on a not-so-steep boulder you can reach the top of from the ground?

well I don't know why you would say...what if some climbers came to canada and cut down ten shrubs etc....cause they didn't do this in the US nor would they ever. you are implying something by that statement that is false.

you are right, the boulder is small. IT IS ALL WE HAVE FOR BOULDERING. You must have missed the part where i said we only have about 20 boulders in several hundred miles.

I trad climb more than anything, so i'm not interested in this boulder anyways, and will likely never go to it. The routes here are way to good to waste my time on little rocks.