why cant i!!!

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
D_avidB_ell
Posts: 12
Joined: Thu Jun 02, 2005 1:03 am

Post by D_avidB_ell »

Power2U,

your exactly right. thank you
chase what makes your heart flutter
Meadows
Posts: 5395
Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2003 4:03 pm

Post by Meadows »

I was worried about the crux, but from other routes, I improved my crimp strength (Pulling Pockets, Disappearer) and feet work. When I got back on it, I blew through it first attempt and with no problem. Maybe that will help you.
pawilkes
Posts: 1570
Joined: Sat Jul 10, 2004 5:45 am

Post by pawilkes »

was that before or after you broke your ankle on it Meadows?
Sand inhibits the production of toughtosterone, so get it out and send.
Sunshine
Posts: 567
Joined: Sun May 02, 2004 5:20 pm

Post by Sunshine »

Meadows didn't break her ankle. Her belayer did!
So now you'd better stop and rebuild all your ruins,
For peace and trust can win the day despite of all your losing-- Zep
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steep4me
Posts: 614
Joined: Mon Jun 16, 2003 6:18 pm

Post by steep4me »

I used to have trouble sending that route due to the crux. If that is your problem, look to the right a little, there is a small "ear" shaped hold. Grab that with your right hand, step up and grab a couple of good crimps with edges above your head. Then clip the crux clip with your left hand. That way, when you traverse the worst slopey crimps, you are already clipped in and can relax. Then, just before you start on the flake, there is a good hold to shake out on. I usually spend a minute or two there slowing my breathing and de-pumping.

Good luck! :)
Hauling a big ego up a route adds at least a full grade.
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