RRC Archives

What about using a torque wrench for the initial bolting or maintenance. If you can haul a drill up the route you can handle a larger wrench and the bolts should have a recommended and maximum torque

squeezindlemmon wrote: ...So don't worry, Artsay.

I've just never seen anything like that before. I trust you all completely, though. I am but a young grasshoppa.....

i don't know what they used, but in building ropes courses, we use 7x19 aircraft cable, which is rated to 14,400lbs when swedged. I've often wondered why climbers didn't use this instead of chain. Sounds like now they are!!

I am confused about this, "clipping directly to the hangers can cause a loosening of the torque on them." I always clip directly into hangers on any anchor set-up. Is there something special or different about "Fixe Rap Ring" anchors? Why?

rhunt wrote:I am confused about this, "clipping directly to the hangers can cause a loosening of the torque on them." I always clip directly into hangers on any anchor set-up. Is there something special or different about "Fixe Rap Ring" anchors? Why?

Me confused 2?
I try to clip directly into hangers when setting up a tr if at all possible. I save the rings, quick links, or chains for the rap.
I can see how this might 'torque' the anchor, but wouldn't the same happen when you clip the ring?

I think it's easier to clean a route when the draws are through the anchors since you don't have to worry about the rope pinching the draws right at the end when you're trying to take them off. That's why I tend to clip chains higher up.

I understand the idea of the two points of failure, but am I mistaken in thinking that anchors or bolts will break long before those rings?

Sco Bro wrote:Two, I have a buddy who has a fit anytime the rap rings are used for anything more than a rappel. He said rap rings are hollow aluminum, might not absorb the force of a TR fall, etc.

It's my understanding (and if anybody knows different, please correct me) that those rings are stainless steel, not hollow aluminum. To remove them you have to cut them with a grinder in two different places since you can't open them with just a single cut. They'll definately hold that fall.

Rick, have you put Arnold up against any of these rings?

Fixe designed the ring anchors to be used in this way. The rings are even large enough to accomodate several carabiners.

There are some hollow aluminum rap rings out there. These are the "old fashioned" kinds that you might find attached to a "wad of sling" anchor. I have seen these on several trad routes at the Red. They are fine to rappel from, but not something that I would want to toprope or lower off of. On the other hand, the Fixe rings are solid stainless steel and are much larger and thicker.

Thanks for explaining that Jrock. Hollow aluminum doesnt sound to good to me.
All this time I've been checking webbing and the rings are just as suspect.

You can put beer in hollow al containers!

Sunshine wrote:You can put beer in hollow al containers!

Mmmm... beer....