RRC Archives

Head game is where it's at. I'd be interested in others' opinions on this idea: it always seemed to me that it came down to whether your ability to think rationally (trust in the gear, trust in the placements) overcame your irrational thoughts (I'm so high up, I'm gonna die!). Maybe it has to do with the ability to judge what is a safe or protectable situation, but if a person is dominated by their fear, I've never seen a way to convince them otherwise. They have to do it themselves. Know your gear, know the rock. If you've got that and still can't get your lead head, I'm not sure what will help.

electroshock?

Practice falling is one thing, but falling while going for a move is what freaks me out. The "what ifs" take over & I'm totally out of control. I know how ya feel kneebar.

Something interesting about Arnos' teaching is that before you even begin to climb, be it from the ground to the first bolt (or pro), or higher on the climb from one bolt to the next, you have a series of decisions to make.
Ultamately, you decide weather you want to take the risk.
If you decide to take it, you do so giving 100% effort, knowing the outcome will be one of two things.
You will either climb through the section, or you will fall.
You have accepted the fact that you could fall.

Take practice falls.
Get used to falling.
It works.

I used to get all worked up when I was sketched, right before falling, and get that really freaked out feeling.
Not anymore.
Most times I barely get out an "I'm off" when I fall. Just to let my belayer know.
No more "YAHHHHHHHHHH, SHIIIIIIT".

for me, it was a focus problem. the whole time i was climbing past my protection all i could think about was either the fall or the protection. when i started focusing on my movement and my body (ie: the holds i have or i'm going to, my feet, my balance..), i noticed falling became easier because i usually got to a point where i either had to go for it or had to let go. also, now i try to not downclimb. i'd rather take the bigger fall than risk a short one and i feel like downclimbing i'm more likely to blow off unprepared.

so i guess the things that really helped me were: focus, trusting/knowing my belayer, committing to the moves, and just taking a few nice, soft lobs.

electroshock only works when you're on route. we can hook you up with one of those invisible fence collars

oh and here's another thought on that: whereas i used to really hate falling (once i completely bailed out on the red and drove to climbtime cincy instead, ask virge), now i kind of look forward to it because when i fall i'm usually so pumped and letting go feel so good. it's immediately relief from the pump

I have gotten quite good at down climbing..........but I do like the idea of the collar!

I have some experience with this. As many of you know, I'm infamous for screaming when I fall. I could make serious money recording it and selling it to B movies.

First, I agree with Wes & Sunshine never allow anyone to belay you unless you're certain that you feel safe. Don't worry about hurting someone's feelings, just be nice and explain that you aren't comfortable. I generally tell them that I'm a headcase and need my buddy to belay.

Second, I started out taking small whips. Margeurite was a little angel on a climb right next to me coaxing me above my bolt and encouraging me to let go. It was great. Sometimes, I just need someone to tell me it's okay.

Third, as Wes says, learn the math. Part of my fear of falling is my insecurity in my own ability to judge a fall. For example, if I'm not sure where my leg needs to be in relation to the rope, I hang and ask so I don't fall with my foot behind the rope. I look out for other things too, like ledges, pendulum falls, etc. When I can spot potential problems and identify my fears, I feel better.

Fourth, when I'm scared, I climb for the next jug. If I know where the next jug is and I know I can make it, then I'm cool. I don't prematurely whig out about the next bolt. I learned that from reading the warrior's way book. Very helpful for me.

Finally, I climb with people who fall. I really credit climbing with Jen Sauer as the cure for my bad lead head. When you see someone constantly push their limit, take huge whips and climb totally pumped out of your mind, you realize that it can be done. One of my best accomplishments climbing was clipping draws while pumped. It took me forever to try that b/c I was so frightened.

Anyway, I think it's different for everyone. Good luck!

i totally relate with you kneebar.

I really hate falling above sketchy gear and/or ledges. In the past those situations frightened me a little bit and I climbed very slowly and cautiously. Now I just add a bolt.