The Star ratings

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
mantra51
Posts: 54
Joined: Mon May 16, 2005 6:18 am

Post by mantra51 »

SCIN wrote:This is the Red River Gorge and it ranks as one of the top sport climbing destinations in the world. Just as almost every crack at Indian Creek, UT is pristine, so are the sport lines at the Red.
Thats a stretch.
Chiefin C is in the House!
Paul3eb
Posts: 2445
Joined: Wed Sep 24, 2003 1:49 am

Post by Paul3eb »

i'm with kneebar and allah on this one about the creek.. but hey, people call the red boring, too. to each their own.

the stars, like the ratings, are arbitrary. sometimes they'll get three stars cause their unique (crack attack comes to mind), other times cause they're fun (gettin' lucky in kentucky), other times cause of the view (bed time for bonzo), other times cause of the history (cavers' route).. the stars, in my opinion, are way of deciding if they're worth the time and not a choss pile.. but if i find out brother stair has stars.. i'm packing the c4!
and great loves will one day have to part -smashing pumpkins
Horatio Felacio
Posts: 3338
Joined: Tue Sep 24, 2002 7:26 pm

Post by Horatio Felacio »

Wes wrote:Man, as hard as it seems to believe, perfect splitters get boring after a while. Just think how boring a 5.11 route would be in the red if it had 90 feet of the excat same hold. Like climbing a ladder, only at the creek you are just climbing a hand jam ladder. And yes, I know there are more varried routes out there, I just like the varity of the red for a home base. The creek is killer for a week or so at a time.
this is something weak people would say.
Yo HO!! Just got me a code red and some funyons big dawg!!! SHIT YEAH! - Ray, excited about his breakfast
Wes
Posts: 6530
Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 3:46 pm

Post by Wes »

Horatio Felacio wrote:
Wes wrote:Man, as hard as it seems to believe, perfect splitters get boring after a while. Just think how boring a 5.11 route would be in the red if it had 90 feet of the excat same hold. Like climbing a ladder, only at the creek you are just climbing a hand jam ladder. And yes, I know there are more varried routes out there, I just like the varity of the red for a home base. The creek is killer for a week or so at a time.
this is something weak people would say.
True. I am weak. Weak minded as well. Short attention span and all. Those 120 foot routes at the creek with the same move over and over just make me sleepy.
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda
J-Rock
Posts: 1936
Joined: Tue Apr 13, 2004 9:30 pm

Post by J-Rock »

In the past I often thought that much of the climbing at the Red was very similiar. Overhanging jug hauls, crimp ladders, pockets, and more pockets, etc. But, the more I explored and the more I climbed the more I discovered that there was a considerable amount of variety. Sometimes I just takes a little bit of effort to find it, but it is there. We may not have the high concentration of clean quality classic climbs in one area as Indian Creek, but there are plenty of 5 star climbs for anybody willing to do a little bit of searching.

We have routes as good as Indian Creek, but it will require traveling to several different crags within the Red: one might be at Long Wall, another at Dip Wall, another at Fortress Wall, or Hen's Nest, etc.
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."

--A Navaho elder
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