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Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2005 1:39 pm
by weber
dhoyne wrote:
the lurkist wrote:Is it plausible that the "soft" quality of the corbin sandstone actually acts as a buffer or shock absorber, allowing the bolt to fall back on its tensile qualities as it deforms down as the rock crushes under it?
I think it's a matter of how fast the bolt is loaded. A standard tensile or compression (and even Rick's testing and the UIAA testing) applies fairly slowly. This allows a material to slowly increase its strain until it first hits its yield point, then eventually its ultimate tensile/compression strength. In real life, we don't load bolts slowly; it's a VERY fast load. There is almost no time for a material to deform at its yield point as it is quickly strained to its ultimate(breaking) point.
Spoken like a wise metalurgical engineer. :wink:

One test we hope to do sometime is to drop a huge load off a cliff with a chain attached to a standard bolted hanger. That would be a worst case scenario for shock loading.

Rick

Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2005 1:48 pm
by weber
kneebar wrote:Rick, you said you had planed on testing threaded rod. What alloy and grade are you trying? Thanks for doing all the testing.
Alloy: 18-8 stainless steel. Minimum Rockwell hardness: B70. Min. tensile strength 70,000 psi. Size: 3/8-16.

3/8-16 rod is glued into a 7/16 hole (as opposed to a 1/2 hole, which is drilled for a 1/2-inch sleeve bols with a 3/8-16 bolt inside)

A variety of adhesives are being tried.

Rick

Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2005 3:21 pm
by Caspian
Has anyone ever done any rudimentary testing of Porter hangers?

Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2005 3:47 pm
by Huggybone
I think Black diamond tested them years ago.

Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2005 3:53 pm
by Caspian
Huggybone wrote:I think Black diamond tested them years ago.
Sorry, I should have clarified "recently". I am sure they have held more than a few falls in there day, but they have been hanging out there a few years and I am curious about there quality.