RRC Archives

Most people climbing the top of Calypso III get fixated on jamming the crack and forget to look for holds out on the face.

dhoyne wrote:There are tons of very good pockets. Excellent opportunity to try out those Metolius 3 cams or tri-cams.

You can place more gear than you can carry there's so many pockets.

And you are super experenced at trad climbing? I know I think that it is a tricky route to protect, and it is east to pump out placing what might only be marginal pro. So, I would have to very strongly disagree with what you said about it being a good first/early trad lead.

Wes

First trad leads..go to Seneca or the Gunks. If you must learn trad in the Red avoid all routes labeled as 'good first trad lead'. American Crack has suckered many an aspiring trad leader. Hell it was my first trad lead and look where it got me. There are always pros and cons to all routes labeled as a good first lead. Know the pros and cons before you cast off.

I agree with wes

Steve wrote:First trad leads..go to Seneca or the Gunks. If you must learn trad in the Red avoid all routes labeled as 'good first trad lead'. American Crack has suckered many an aspiring trad leader. Hell it was my first trad lead and look where it got me. There are always pros and cons to all routes labeled as a good first lead. Know the pros and cons before you cast off.

Personally, I think seneca is a dangerous place to learn...or to even walk along the base.

American Crack was my first lead...and save the somewhat hard, but well protected start....I think its a great first lead. Big face holds, easy stemming, great pro in a continous crack...

as much as I think American Crack blows, I will finally concede that it is a good first trad lead. It's super easy climbing and takes great gear. I think Suess Suess Seudio is a much better first lead, but it's closed. Father and Son is a fantastic early lead, too, as is the first pitch of Bedtime for Bonzo. Do Roadside Attraction after you have a few routes under your belt--very fun, gorgeous route, with great gear. And when you want to do an easy 8, nothing beats Whiteout.

I also agree with Wes about Motha. Placing tricams is tricky to learn, but definitely something you should practice. I love using them now, but wouldn't have when I first started leading. If you want to lead pocketed faces, I'd suggest leading Eureka on gear for practice protecting pockets. Perhaps clip the bolts, too, if you want to feel super secure while doing it (it can be heady passing bolts to look for gear placements...).

Diggum, now that you know what to expect on Calypso III, you should consider going back and leading it again. Get right back on that horse!

while Eureka is fun to do on gear....I think the rock quality is pretty bad for the first 2/3rds of the route.

diggum wrote: I need a fun, easy trad route to try to lead or I may give up on it. Any suggestions?

Three good routes to try would be Ed, tradmill, velveteen (All at Muir Valley.)

velveteen is fun. The start is the only harder move and you get decent protection. I think I used a 1 camalot and a yellow TCU.

My first trad lead was a 5.6 at Iron Gate Virgina. I remember it well. I was actually singing some gospel song while climbing it because I was having sooooo much fun. That was back when my only cam was a #1 Camalot. Go cow bells and tri-cams!!

Hey Chriss, that Velveteen route sure is fun and a great beginner lead. I used the same two pieces when I led it. The next time I just soloed up.