RRC Archives

A begginers rack is small so hexes and tricams may be the only thing left for an anchor on a long pitch,but like you said,for the price you could have bought a cam or two. Tricams work in pockets or those really pebbly pin scars sometimes where a cam wont sit. One works for a first piece on calypso 3.Nothing else sits there.

ynot wrote: Tricams work in pockets or those really pebbly pin scars sometimes where a cam wont sit.

how many pebbly pin scars are there in the red???

I'll take a bomber hex over a cam any day!

Beginner trad leaders will often run it out because it is cool to say, "I really ran it out!". Another reason for running it out is beginners may not recognize good placements. And, new trad leaders usually have a small rack. What a beginner needs to do is place lots of gear. How else can you learn to place gear if you don't place gear. If you don't have much gear climb with someone who does. When racking up to lead trad use the gear loops on your harness. Just like sport climbing. Rack similar pieces on either side. That way you can quickly and easily grab the the piece you need. Try to avoid just one piece between you and a ledge or ground fall. Remember it's not rocket science. It's just rock science. However, there is one math formula I think you should know. The size of your testicles is inversely proportional to the size of your rack. I have a huge rack! Also, Moonbeam does not have a rack.

J-Rock wrote:I'll take a bomber hex over a cam any day!

Right on, J-Rock! I guess we're just old.

I would have killed for some hexes on my first few trad leads. I had a set of stoppers and two cams, #1 and #2 sized. They got me into a lot of trouble. Imagine leading Calypso III with that rack pre-bolt anchors. I topped it out, and almost gave up leading forever.

Hexes are great. I use them all the time. And I love the sound they make hanging off my harness as I rhodothrash along the base of the cliffs.

i don't own any hexes but i think it would be really bitchin to do the nose on all passive gear. if i can round up the gear/testicles i might try it this fall.

I forgot an important tip. Never belay with a rappel device! That is so old school.
Hexes.......oh yea!

Or never rappel with a belay device?

Figure 8s are so gay.

Best tip for learning trad: Hook up with some trad climbers.