Bouldering Comp, Jan. 29th, Rocksport in Louisville
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longlegsrule
- Posts: 1799
- Joined: Sat Jan 25, 2003 7:21 pm
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longlegsrule
- Posts: 1799
- Joined: Sat Jan 25, 2003 7:21 pm
This is a bouldering comp not a route comp...and redpoint bouldering comps are as follows...
This is the most popular format for both competitors and hosts. Everybody climbs together and scores each other. Points are deducted for the first few attempts and a competitors final score is either the sum of their top problems, or the total sum.
Description
The competitor field is split into either ability levels or age categories, with separate divisions for men and women.
All competitors climb at the same time and are allowed to observe other climbers prior to their attempts. Competitors choose which and how many of the problems they will attempt, and they get as many attempts as time permits.
Competitors witness each other climb and award points with their initials. When competitors wish to attempt a problem, they must get two other people to witness their climb. If they complete it, the witnesses initial the card to award points.
Scoring
Each problem is assigned an ABS point value. An approximate comparison between the V-scale, the YDS and the ABS grading scale:
V-scale YDS ABS points
V0- 5.0 to 5.8 10
V0 5.9 15
V0+ 5.10- 20
V1 5.10+ 30
V2 5.11- 40
V3 5.11+ 60
V4 5.12- 80
V5 5.12 120
V6 5.12+ 160
V7 5.13- 240
V8 5.13 320
V9 5.13+ 480
V10 5.14- 640
Points are awarded only for completing the entire problem, as marked, without any aid. The point value associated with each problem reflects the difficulty, as well as other factors such as length and height. Competitors must match on the final hold.
Competitors are awarded the entire point value for a flash (first-try ascent), 90% of the point value for success on the second attempt and 80% of the point value for any later ascent. Scores are recorded on a scorecard, which the competitor is responsible for and which must be turned in at the end of the event.
A competitor's final score is determined in one of two ways listed below. Ties may be awarded as such, or may be broken by considering the number of attempts or, for top scores comps, adding the next best problems (add the best 6 in a top 5 comp).
1) Top scores
A competitor’s final score is decided by adding their top scores, usually the top five or seven. This scoring method tends to be the most popular as it runs more quickly and is easier to finalize scores. A top-scores ABS comp should have at least 30 problems, and should last between three and five hours.
2) Total score
A competitor’s final score is decided by adding all of their scores. To run well, this scoring scheme requires more problems (at least 50) and a few more volunteers to add scores at the end. A total-scores ABS comp should last between four and six hours.
Rules
All participants are expected to treat other competitors, judges, spectators and other persons present with courtesy and respect. If a competitor is found to display unsportsmanlike conduct during any ABS event they may be asked to leave.
Competitors may use whatever equipment is generally accepted in bouldering including climbing shoes, chalk, toothbrushes, crash pads and helmets.
Competitors must begin at the marked starting handholds or features.
If a problem has two or more marked starting handholds or features, competitors are allowed to begin using only one.
Participants must climb to the end using only the marked holds and features and without external physical aid. Verbal assistance is allowed and encouraged.
Competitors may work out the moves on a problem, but can only receive the third point value for an ascent afterwards.
If a competitor falls without reaching the first hold or feature they will be allowed a second try without going to the back of the line, however the failed attempt does count on their scorecard.
Competitors are allowed to down climb part of a problem only if they use the marked holds and features.
If a technical problem occurs (e.g. hold spins or breaks) competitors may return to the ground immediately to retry without the attempt being scored. Competitors who continue climbing after a technical incident will forfeit this opportunity.
When a climber uses a hold or feature that is not included in the problem, the ascent will not be given any points.
To receive points for a problem, the last hold must be held and controlled with two hands.
Ties are awarded as ties, unless the two (or more) climbers reach a mutual agreement.
(Optional) competitors in the juniors division can use any footholds.
This is the most popular format for both competitors and hosts. Everybody climbs together and scores each other. Points are deducted for the first few attempts and a competitors final score is either the sum of their top problems, or the total sum.
Description
The competitor field is split into either ability levels or age categories, with separate divisions for men and women.
All competitors climb at the same time and are allowed to observe other climbers prior to their attempts. Competitors choose which and how many of the problems they will attempt, and they get as many attempts as time permits.
Competitors witness each other climb and award points with their initials. When competitors wish to attempt a problem, they must get two other people to witness their climb. If they complete it, the witnesses initial the card to award points.
Scoring
Each problem is assigned an ABS point value. An approximate comparison between the V-scale, the YDS and the ABS grading scale:
V-scale YDS ABS points
V0- 5.0 to 5.8 10
V0 5.9 15
V0+ 5.10- 20
V1 5.10+ 30
V2 5.11- 40
V3 5.11+ 60
V4 5.12- 80
V5 5.12 120
V6 5.12+ 160
V7 5.13- 240
V8 5.13 320
V9 5.13+ 480
V10 5.14- 640
Points are awarded only for completing the entire problem, as marked, without any aid. The point value associated with each problem reflects the difficulty, as well as other factors such as length and height. Competitors must match on the final hold.
Competitors are awarded the entire point value for a flash (first-try ascent), 90% of the point value for success on the second attempt and 80% of the point value for any later ascent. Scores are recorded on a scorecard, which the competitor is responsible for and which must be turned in at the end of the event.
A competitor's final score is determined in one of two ways listed below. Ties may be awarded as such, or may be broken by considering the number of attempts or, for top scores comps, adding the next best problems (add the best 6 in a top 5 comp).
1) Top scores
A competitor’s final score is decided by adding their top scores, usually the top five or seven. This scoring method tends to be the most popular as it runs more quickly and is easier to finalize scores. A top-scores ABS comp should have at least 30 problems, and should last between three and five hours.
2) Total score
A competitor’s final score is decided by adding all of their scores. To run well, this scoring scheme requires more problems (at least 50) and a few more volunteers to add scores at the end. A total-scores ABS comp should last between four and six hours.
Rules
All participants are expected to treat other competitors, judges, spectators and other persons present with courtesy and respect. If a competitor is found to display unsportsmanlike conduct during any ABS event they may be asked to leave.
Competitors may use whatever equipment is generally accepted in bouldering including climbing shoes, chalk, toothbrushes, crash pads and helmets.
Competitors must begin at the marked starting handholds or features.
If a problem has two or more marked starting handholds or features, competitors are allowed to begin using only one.
Participants must climb to the end using only the marked holds and features and without external physical aid. Verbal assistance is allowed and encouraged.
Competitors may work out the moves on a problem, but can only receive the third point value for an ascent afterwards.
If a competitor falls without reaching the first hold or feature they will be allowed a second try without going to the back of the line, however the failed attempt does count on their scorecard.
Competitors are allowed to down climb part of a problem only if they use the marked holds and features.
If a technical problem occurs (e.g. hold spins or breaks) competitors may return to the ground immediately to retry without the attempt being scored. Competitors who continue climbing after a technical incident will forfeit this opportunity.
When a climber uses a hold or feature that is not included in the problem, the ascent will not be given any points.
To receive points for a problem, the last hold must be held and controlled with two hands.
Ties are awarded as ties, unless the two (or more) climbers reach a mutual agreement.
(Optional) competitors in the juniors division can use any footholds.
From Kentucky ;o)