RRC Archives

512OW wrote:And it must have been soft for ages, cuz theres half inch deep rope marks in the rock (which I avoided for fear of it not being a "free" ascent"), which I tend to think are toprope marks, since the area was also a popular toprope area for the UC mountaineering club.

Seems to me that any feature in the rock should be fair game as long as it wasn't put there un-necessarily to make things easier (i.e. chipping something that didn't needed to be chipped). Routes change over time. True, most of them get harder as holds break and holds get smoothed from so many greasy hands on them (i.e. Ro), but that's just part of route evoltion from moss covered to chalk covered.

Yeah, but Kristophe doesn't neeeeeed toprope grooves because he's a BAD ASS TRAD CLIMBER.

Is it true that he only uses the shadows on the rock for holds?

That's grrrreat! Rack him!

512OW wrote:Glad you found it. You'll need it with the way you sew shit up.

Maybe so, but I get to the top, and any crack I climb is going to have stretch marks when I get done. If you like climbing wide cracks so much maybe you'd like my sloppy seconds.

marathonmedic wrote:Seems to me that any feature in the rock should be fair game as long as it wasn't put there un-necessarily to make things easier (i.e. chipping something that didn't needed to be chipped). Routes change over time. True, most of them get harder as holds break and holds get smoothed from so many greasy hands on them (i.e. Ro), but that's just part of route evoltion from moss covered to chalk covered.

I see your point, but the real reason I didn't use them is because I found it to be of a lesser style than using the features that weren't created by humans.

Legion wrote: Maybe so, but I get to the top, and any crack I climb is going to have stretch marks when I get done. If you like climbing wide cracks so much maybe you'd like my sloppy seconds.

Ahahahaha....get to the top of WHAT??? You couldn't get up Armed, you couldn't even do the easy moves on Drug Pusher (which you later claimed you "almost" did.....you "almost" did the first 3 moves), and the way I hear it, you bailed on some easy 5.8 in Yosemite that I climbed in my approach shoes.

Face it...you talk big game....and can't back it up. You're not strong like you think. I'd out crack climb you in my fuckin sleep with your girlfriend on my back.

Period. I know it. You know it.

And welcome everyone to rockclimbing.com.

WTF is the big deal about this route...? So Ray and Kris didn't do this thing, like 7 years ago, when they were getting into offwidth climbing. If there is any doubt from you that one of these guys couldn't send the thing today then you are simply sticking your foot in your ass.

Back when Static sent this thing though, that was bad ass... and will be more bad ass, always, then if someone sends it 25 years later.

Cap'n. I thought I read somewhere that Here Comes Batman was a toprope problem first, then it was lead. Is that correct? Thanks, I want to make sure I'm not wrong about the history of the early hard routes.