512OW wrote:How bout hanging 70 feet up, out in space penduluming from a roof crack, while you watch your rope saw halfway through on the sharp lip of the crack.
Been there. Done that. Although it wasn't a roof crack, it was overhanging. I stared at the few strands still intact while I was lowered 70 feet to the ground. The very next weekend I badly cut another rope on a flake. Those were the only two times I've ever cut a rope halfway through the core. It just seemed weird that it happened to two different ropes on two consecutive weekends.
I've also landed on the edge of a crash pad from a highball and broken my ankle. That kinda sucked too.
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."
it's not an option but i would say small passive. they just aren't rated for much. but the rest of it isn't all bad. i'm not saying it's great.. but like someone said, at least there's a rope (rope cutting roof cracks not-withstanding).
and great loves will one day have to part -smashing pumpkins
frig that, I don't want to fall on gear OR bolts on a slab. In particular, 70+ foot runouts on granite.
that all over cheese grated look isn't one I'm going for.
But seriously, I'd rather fall on new bolts that I know are placed well, or gear. what kind doesn't matter. whatever. I trust it all if it is a good placement.
I am a huge fan in particular of the tricam.
The phrase "working mother" is redundant. ~Jane Sellman
Yup. Slab falls are the only thing that scares me now. Being that I'm a sporto so I'm not worried about the gear falls yet.
Now the freaky solo problems without a spot on questionable landings are a whole different story. That's why I really don't try things like that without a spot.
J-Rock wrote:Supposedly a guy from Black Diamond tested some of those bedframe hangers and they were much stronger than expected. They sure look scary and sharp though! I still feel better on new hangers.
That was Russ Clune and I don't know where you got your information but the "bedframe" hangers were super weak! I can't remember exactly what Russ said but it I think that the hangers that were actually fallen on before the test were failing somewhere around 400 lbs.
'Darling, may I please be excused for a moment?
I have to shake hands with a very dear friend of mine, whom I hope to introduce you to after dinner.'
The polite way to excuse yourself and take a piss.
Does King Me still have the bedframe hangers? "Hey that looks something like a reverse guillotine if you fall" someone said as they walked by as I was starting it. Fell on one, once, as well. 400lbs
Man, I'm not falling on that bed frame crap. Actually, I won't climb it. What are rusty bedframe pieces rated at?
I think falls that are longer than you expect are the scariest ones. I, um, fell on the weekend on a medium sized nut. I thought it was maybe at my feet, but it was actually several feet below. I went from being about half way up a climb to about 4' off the ground. NOT what I pictured.
