Posted: Mon Oct 11, 2004 4:22 pm
Kick ass dude ! Glad you finally got it.
Cool. Thanks again guys.
Medic, I'll try to get some shots of it. I think 512OW took some a long time ago.
The line is pretty cool. It's like 10-15 feet of 5.2 to get to the roof. Then you do a wicked long move off a small hold out to a shitty hand jam at the lip, make room for your other hand then cut feet. Swing your feet out and up onto the face then it's really funky. Basically you have to climb the crack blind for a few feet. It's hard to explain but the wall that your head is against is overhanging while the other side of the crack is more vertical. So as you move up, you are reaching around the overhanging wall into the crack just locking into whatever you can feel. This causes the edge of the overhanging wall to dig into the backs of your arms but the torque holds you in. The finger locks are shallow and flaring. Then eventually you have to pull your body around into the dihedral and shove your shoulder up against what little bit of wall you have. You shuffle up the shitty fingers until you can make a big reach to a fist jam. Then it's kinda rough overhanging fists to the top.
For me it's pretty brutal and powerful. The gear is hard to place also. Someone else may float up it (Horatio!) but it took me about 10 days over the course of 5 years to finally get. I even abandoned it once because I thought it was beyond my abilities. Like anything though, I think I just had to say to myself that I was going to focus on it and only it for a few weekends. If it were at a popular trad destination it probably would've gone a long time ago by someone else but there just aren't as many people here interested in that stuff.