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Posted: Thu Sep 16, 2004 6:43 pm
by Lateralus
yeah, i'll give you the bouldery part about stay the hand peeps, just one of the easier 12a's I could think of at the Red imo, one of the few I was able to onsight. How bout Check your Grip for a first of that grade, fairly straight forward and not too technical or bouldery (although a we bit sporty if I recall) ?


yeah rhunt, your sig's not too shabby either man, can't wait for the new album early '05 maybe? should be amazing

Posted: Thu Sep 16, 2004 6:46 pm
by rhunt
yeah it should be cool, I hear they are going for a harder sound.

Posted: Fri Sep 17, 2004 1:51 am
by J-Rock
If you are solid at 5.10 and can crank a few V2-V4 boulder problems between good rests then you are ready for the easier 5.12's at the Red. If you want something a little more technical then go to the New. Therefore, to climb 5.12 at the Red: do lots of 5.10's and 5.11's and BOULDER. Next climb smart and efficiently so you can take advantage of the good rests and not waste too much energy trying to fight the pump.

Posted: Fri Sep 17, 2004 10:20 am
by Zspider
Thanks for all the suggestions. It's ungodly early Friday morning, and I'll be heading down to the Gorge in a few hours. I get to find out if I can pull that crux move between the third and fourth bolt on Ro Shampo.

ZSpider

Posted: Fri Sep 17, 2004 11:00 am
by SikMonkey
Uh, isnt' it raining where you are?

Mj

Posted: Fri Sep 17, 2004 12:28 pm
by Meadows
SikMonkey, I don't think IN is affected. Looks sunny and warm where I'm going.

Posted: Fri Sep 17, 2004 12:29 pm
by Zspider
It's not raining here in southern Indiana, yet, SikMonkey, but there's a pretty good chunk of Roadside that's good to go in the rain, isn't there? The last time I was there it was raining so hard that AWOL was dripping pretty bad and same with the other 10s except Pulling Pockets, which was dry as a bone. And I've never seen Ro Shampo wet. And if we get tired of all that, there's a bunch of 10s and 11s at Torrent that I can flail on. I did pack a raincoat for soggy approaches.

I cancel trips to the Gorge if it gets too cold, but rain is not a show stopper. I also packed a long-handled shovel for The Gathering tomorrow. Damn thing barely fits in my little Honda Civic station wagon.

ZSpider

Posted: Fri Sep 17, 2004 1:00 pm
by SikMonkey
Ah, I just figured Ro would seep with everything else in the Red. I wish you the best of luck in finding dry rock though and have a great weekend. The forecast looks MUCH more promising for Sunday now so maybe I can get in some pitches. If the weather stays the way it is now I am just going to say screw it and do a 3 week HIT strip workout.

Mj

Posted: Mon Sep 20, 2004 3:36 am
by Lateralus
some of the best jugs in the Red....

Image

Posted: Mon Sep 20, 2004 12:25 pm
by J-Rock
Is that the top of "Bandelier"?