RRC Archives

Hell no, it's good....enough. In my own defense, I DO like other (better) beers but not to drink in large quantities.

Mj

Now if we are talking about beer as a liquid training supplement, the Huber bros would recommend a good dark meaty German beer.

To clarify my points a bit further, what Horst suggests is that climbers should be clear about why they are climbing on a particular day. Is it going to be a performance day (i.e. I'm going to redpoint my project), a trraining day (i.e. I'm going to run laps on X route to work on my endurance), or a fun day. You don't want to flip flop & decide at the last minute on the day that you had planned for that redpoint to just have fun instead. Also, when thinking about building the pyramid, the farther down you go in the base, the more you should be trying onsights. If you're highest redpoint is 5.11a, then most of your 5.10a goals should be onsights. It would also be good to reserve a few at your highest redpoint level for an onsight attempt.

Meadows wrote:It's straight from a toilet, not a brewery.

SikMonkey wrote:Thanks Mayor! You ain't so bad yourself! Just remember though, no matter what you do or who you are, cheap beer is beer too.

Mj

This coming from the same girl I saw drinking Coors Light not too long ago?

Hey sik, doesn't your pyramid look like more like the CN-tower?

I like the idea of building a pyramid, but tend to approach from the top down in practice, lacking the discipline for a training regimen. As in I'll tend to project routes for a few months, then go out for fun days for on-sights and easier redpoints and back-fill my pyramid. Either way I'm looking for having fun days at the crag.

I do think its a very good idea to have in mind what kind of day you want when you head out, and make sure your partners know. If you're heading out for a training day and go where there's no training routes for you, it can be really frustrating.

Oh yeah, and if you have to head back early, let your partners know BEFORE you go. A little off topic, but it's a little pet peeve of mine.

Captain Static, et all.

First, in England after a woman gave birth the doctors would ususally hand her a pint of Guiness. It has a lot of iron, or so the story goes.

Second, in this training regimine, when you say you should go for the onsight are you talking about the mental game of going in with the focus to onsight versus thinking the route might be another project? Or am I missing a nuance?

I believe what they're referring to is the testing of one's set of skills. The ability to read a route, both from the ground and on the rock, then execute the moves necessary to complete it. Seeing where to use a backstep or heel hook is a lot different than someone saying "and when you get there, backstep left and reach", etc.

Onsighting is concidered by many people to be a bit of a "higher" form of climbing. In that it takes much more skill to read the route, figure out the rests, and climb though tough sections without really know if there is a rest ahead. Onsighting some trad routes also adds uncertian gear placement factors as well. So, onsighting trad routes at your limit, is a pretty cool thing. And very rewarding. But, spending time on a route that is so hard for you that you have to hit every move just right, and then sending is also super cool.

Just like with route types, it is good to mix up onsight and redpoint climbing. Onsight skills really come in handy when you are on a trip, and are trying to get in as many routes as you can.


Wes

The pyramid thing makes sense, and most peoples spray list will look like one.

To get in really good shape and send harder.........I think it is a good idea to apply the pyramid to each climbing day.

Don't quit early after you did or didn't do your route........make sure you pyramid down and get some extra mileage. This assumes a pyramid warm-up.

Also, and I think more important (even though variety may round out your skills), find a route that is hard for you, but that you really enjoy. Get it wired, do extra burns on it, and get it totally dialed. Then when you are pyramiding (in the day version ) get on it and do laps... till you you are pumped out of your yin/yan ...... and then do it again. That will build the endurance WE crave, the flow it takes to do harder routes, and then the composure (sp) to perform hard moves while very pumped.

spoon