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Posted: Wed May 05, 2004 5:58 pm
by captain static
Here is some advice from a seasoned veteran:
1. Avoid popular crags like Roadside, Military, & Left Flank.
2. Train & learn to climb better so you no longer have to compete w/gumbies for easy routes.
3. Get out for a walk and explore some of the more obscure crags.
Posted: Wed May 05, 2004 6:03 pm
by KD
Another option is to arrive at the crag very early and jack the routes before the others can, then reverse the situation. This could also be done in a profit situation ie. line renting to cut in on what guides are profitting by the same tactics.
Posted: Wed May 05, 2004 6:03 pm
by pigsteak
but captain, who is going to put in the bolts for me if I do that?
Posted: Wed May 05, 2004 6:47 pm
by rhunt
get to the crag early, then stick clip the first bolt of the route(warm-up) you want to do, then you'll have time to chill, shit, eat, and stretch before you're ready to climb. It's like getting your quarter on the table when you stick clip the first bolt...best way to claim a route!
Oh and go to roadside; I've been there when the parking lot was over flowing with cars and no one was on the 10/11/12's...when it's like that I like to walk over to the slabs and laugh at the 80 people all waiting to climb 8 routes...hehehe
Posted: Wed May 05, 2004 7:01 pm
by pigsteak
thanks for that bit of poser love rhunt.....
Posted: Wed May 05, 2004 7:14 pm
by rhunt
welcome piggie...just trying to give some tips for all the newbies
Posted: Wed May 05, 2004 10:29 pm
by pianomahnn
captain static wrote:Here is some advice from a seasoned veteran:
2. Train & learn to climb better so you no longer have to compete w/gumbies for easy routes.
Maybe you're all about
training and working hard. I climb for the enjoyment of climbing, regardless of the grade. Working my ass off to get better isn't enjoyble. That's work. And work != fun. Climbing easy routes is relaxing and peaceful.
Once again. . .whatever.
Posted: Thu May 06, 2004 1:04 pm
by squeezindlemmon
pianomahnn wrote:I climb for the enjoyment of climbing, regardless of the grade.
Alex Lowe couldn't have said it any better:
"The best climber in the world is the one who is having the most fun."
Or something like that.....
Posted: Thu May 06, 2004 1:17 pm
by MiaRock
gee and i thought most folks climbed just so they can say they climbed at the Lode.
Posted: Thu May 06, 2004 1:22 pm
by rhunt
MiaRock wrote:gee and i thought most folks climbed just so they can say they climbed at the Lode.
Now you've got it Mia!
