Route hogging....

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
captain static
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Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 6:05 pm

Post by captain static »

Here is some advice from a seasoned veteran:
1. Avoid popular crags like Roadside, Military, & Left Flank.
2. Train & learn to climb better so you no longer have to compete w/gumbies for easy routes.
3. Get out for a walk and explore some of the more obscure crags.
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh
KD
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 1:21 am

Post by KD »

Another option is to arrive at the crag very early and jack the routes before the others can, then reverse the situation. This could also be done in a profit situation ie. line renting to cut in on what guides are profitting by the same tactics.
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pigsteak
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Post by pigsteak »

but captain, who is going to put in the bolts for me if I do that?
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
rhunt
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Joined: Thu May 29, 2003 12:02 pm

Post by rhunt »

get to the crag early, then stick clip the first bolt of the route(warm-up) you want to do, then you'll have time to chill, shit, eat, and stretch before you're ready to climb. It's like getting your quarter on the table when you stick clip the first bolt...best way to claim a route!

Oh and go to roadside; I've been there when the parking lot was over flowing with cars and no one was on the 10/11/12's...when it's like that I like to walk over to the slabs and laugh at the 80 people all waiting to climb 8 routes...hehehe
"Climbing is the spice, not the meal." ~ Lurkist
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pigsteak
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Post by pigsteak »

thanks for that bit of poser love rhunt.....
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
rhunt
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Joined: Thu May 29, 2003 12:02 pm

Post by rhunt »

welcome piggie...just trying to give some tips for all the newbies
"Climbing is the spice, not the meal." ~ Lurkist
pianomahnn
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Joined: Wed May 28, 2003 1:52 am

Post by pianomahnn »

captain static wrote:Here is some advice from a seasoned veteran:
2. Train & learn to climb better so you no longer have to compete w/gumbies for easy routes.
Maybe you're all about training and working hard. I climb for the enjoyment of climbing, regardless of the grade. Working my ass off to get better isn't enjoyble. That's work. And work != fun. Climbing easy routes is relaxing and peaceful.

Once again. . .whatever.
squeezindlemmon
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Joined: Mon Apr 12, 2004 7:02 pm

Post by squeezindlemmon »

pianomahnn wrote:I climb for the enjoyment of climbing, regardless of the grade.
Alex Lowe couldn't have said it any better:

"The best climber in the world is the one who is having the most fun."

Or something like that..... :?
Emancipate yourself from mental slavery. None but ourselves can free our mind. ~Bob Marley
MiaRock
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Joined: Thu Sep 26, 2002 4:43 pm

Post by MiaRock »

gee and i thought most folks climbed just so they can say they climbed at the Lode.
excellent point mia....you are correct. ~ Pigsteak
rhunt
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Joined: Thu May 29, 2003 12:02 pm

Post by rhunt »

MiaRock wrote:gee and i thought most folks climbed just so they can say they climbed at the Lode.
Now you've got it Mia! :wink:
"Climbing is the spice, not the meal." ~ Lurkist
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