RRC Archives

Spuzo, I can't keep up with handles and names on this board, so you'll have to tell me who Dave is.

Im Dave

I'll PM you sometime Dave. Thanks.

Buy a pile of Fixe triplex bolts from Barrabes.com in Spain. Unlike Rawl "stainless" bolts, the triplex bolt is completely stainless. Rawl bolts have a sleeve that is not stainless, they're overpriced, and really easy to botch. You can get the Triplex in the US, but at about three times the cost of the Spanish price. Buy the long ones. They're pretty cheap; about $2.50 each. The postage kills you though. It's something like 35 bucks, so you are better off buying a bunch of stuff at once. I buy hangers and anchors from barrabes. Check out the Fixe line; they have bomber anchors including, stainless hangers with welded rings for about $1.50 each.
One bitch is finding the right drill bit. You need a 12 mm SDS bit, and you can't pick one up in the hardware store. 1/2 inch bit won't work. I think I bought them from Fixe USA (at a rip-off price).

The longest Fixe triplex bolt is 75mm (x12mm dia.). A little under 3 in.
As a previous post suggested 3.75 in. is the shortest suggested length. The anchors provided by Climbing Mag. and used by Terry (and others) were 4.75.
The trend is bolts getting longer not shorter. If you can get longer triplex from Spain let me know. I'm already set up with 12 mm. for Hilti

Very few of the bolts in the Red are SS. and many of the new hangers are. I have read and agreee w/ Kneebar about the galvnic action but have seen litte of the affect or any wear on any bolts I have replaced.

I don't think Powerbolts (Rawl) 5 pc. are easy to botch!!

I like Fixe rings better than Metolious Rap anchors, and they cost about the same.

Well I did find a Fixe 12x110 mm (4.33) (non stainless) on the Barrabes site.

Where can the specs for the Triplex be found? Personally, I am a little weary of this type of bolt in soft sandstone, despite the remarks by Fixe that this bolt is good for soft rock. A lot of the sandstone here is probably as soft as it gets in terms of "soft" rock. There is a Rawl bolt somewhat similar to this--a stud bolt--but the bolt is far inferior to the 5 piece (based on specs). Also, by the time the Rawl stud-type bolt is tight enough much of the bolt would be exposed outside the hanger. In soft sandstone I wouldn't be suprised if a lot of the stud of the Triplex bolt ends up sticking out pretty far after being tightened, leaving little of the bolt actually embedded.

The Rawl type bolts, as well as the Ramset Redheads, work great. They have more than proven themselves around here. The only sure thing that is definitely better are stainless allthread glue-ins.

I can't find the specs anywhere either. I e-mailed Fixe and asked them. Thank god they have an english version on their web site. The triplex stud doesn't stick out when you place them. In fact they grip so quickly that it is impossible to use them with something as thick as a cold-shut. Metolious Rap hangers (god damn them anyways) are probably too thick to use as well. You have to go with something that has the thickness of a hanger.
12 x 90 mm (thats 3.5 inches long) stainless bolts ('inox") are in stock on Barrabes for 2.80. True, the Rawl/Power bolts work great around here. But, on walls that seep a little (such as the undertow wall) over time, anything that isn't stainless starts to get crusty. I am a cheap bastard, and only use triplex bolts for the anchors. But I (we) should probably use them (or some other stainless bolt) indiscriminantly on routes that are going to get wet. The rawl bolt was designed for construction. The Fixe triplex was designed specifically for rock climbing (granted they stole the basic idea from the concrete dudes). They are really easy to work with (un-botchable). Once the nut is loose, you can pull out the sleeve and the bolt with your fingers. You can drill the hole deeper, or move it, whatever. I'll post the failure strengths when I find them.
I get this great feeling of oneness with nature whenever I place a bomber, all- stainless anchor.

just a few things about the triplex...if they bite so quickly...it seems they could be pretty easy to botch. When you say the Power bolts were designed for construction while the fixe bolts were made for climbing...they were both designed to hold large amounts of weight and to withstand forces when placed in a solid medium (rock, concrete, etc). From what i have seen, the power bolts are cheaper and hold up great against the elements in the red.

this whole bolting thing could go on forever with what bolt is best...now glue in bolts ate getting popular and if you can afford it, titanium eye bolts (for climbing) are now avaliable which would stand up the elements best, but its pricy.

Although the bolts do get a little crusty, most of that appears to be only on the surface. And many of those "crusty" bolts are standing strong for over a decade now, and will likely continue to do so since isn't a highly corrosive environment like Lion's Head or other places such as that...

Regardless, I'd really like to see those specs if you get them. We'll see how responsive Fixe is to such a request. It is too bad there aren't any other cheaper all stainless bolts. I personally get irritated with companies like Fixe and their proprietary crap. They probably make a killing on those drill bits they require. Same goes for Stihl chainsaws, but that is another story...

One good alternative is the stainless allthread glue-in. Hugh Loeffler has experimented some with this, and it seems pretty affordable. The only problem with it is regarding new route development, since you obviously can't weight glue-ins as you lower when drilling a steep route...