where can I set up a top-rope at the Red?

wwjd · Post by **wwjd** » Mon Mar 29, 2004 4:56 am

I have never climbed outside before, so maybe I should toprope a few climbs first. What do you all think? Is it okay to just go straight from the gym and lead outside?

Post by **Wicked Tribe** » Mon Mar 29, 2004 7:41 am

You should hire me as a guide. I don't cuss either.

Post by **the lurkist** » Mon Mar 29, 2004 2:20 pm

yeah,wwjd. you should go straight from the gym leading outside. you might get to meet JC in person.

Post by **Thrax** » Tue Mar 30, 2004 2:35 pm

If God did not want wwjd to climb outside he would not have placed bolts in His Stone. Oh, and remember JC died so wwjd could climb on Gods' own Stone.

Post by **philip171** » Tue Mar 30, 2004 9:44 pm

Im just jumping in and not reading the other replys. But like some others said, there are very few top rope sites, wich is why I went strait to lead climbing. But when we first started we would go to "no doze" a 5.4 on tunnal wall. Check the guide book, its not real hard to find, just on the other side of nada tunnle. It is a good crack to climb and is about 30 feet, how ever the rock is very cold since its north facing, so do it on a warm day. Also there is a good scramble you have to go up to setup a top rope, dont fall off that, and not real good ancers on top, a dead pine tree, but still soild and some roots on a big bush, go at your own risk.
Hope that helps, I would follow the other advice and find some one to lead for you, there are TUNs of good climbs if you can get some one to run you a top rope.

Post by **Don McGlone** » Tue Mar 30, 2004 10:05 pm

Try Purple Valley. The first rock you come to on your approach is a detached block that is easy to get on top of. Pebbly Poo, Shish-Kebab, Coffee Talk, A Way of Life and Delusions of Grandeur are on this block. I'm not sure what the anchor (trees) situation is - I haven't been there in a long time. But at least access to the top of the block is easy and with a little rigging, you could surely find something to do. Hope this helps.

Post by **ynot** » Wed Mar 31, 2004 3:09 am

There are anchors on those but getting to them from the top was kinda hairy.
Getting to the bolts for coffee talk involved a big pendulum from Pebbly Poo.

Post by **strum** » Wed Mar 31, 2004 5:17 am

all in all, since it is your first time anyway....
I wouldn't try any ariel acrobatics to get your rope up, rather, either:

1) hire Wicked tribe

2) just ask people to rope gun for you when they are cleaning the climb when they are done, inless they are the worst form of human being they will be happy to

3) jump real high

Post by **Wes** » Wed Mar 31, 2004 5:24 am

TR area's at the red:

New routes at Torrent (tourist trap, etc)
Eagle point Butress (around blister in the sun)
Indian Stairway area
Unpublished sport routes at Roadside, downhill from Kampsight.

You could show up at fotress, have someone put a rope on one of the main area routes, and then you could TR a bunch of others by moving along the ledge.

Via Farratta!!

But, really, the best TR area at the red is the New.

Oh, if you have hot, single chicks in your group, you would have more luck hooking up with ropegun type people.

Wes