RRC Archives

Team Suck is definitely the team to go to to learn...even though Terry always makes me cry (i'm very sensitive to his tough love tactics) he has done a lot for my belaying, and my climbing for that matter.

I want to hire a belay midget that I can teach and would give the perfect catch. It would be nice because he could fit nicely in my pack on the way to and from the crag and I would never have to worry about gettin a bad belay again!

I'm actually surprised as I think back on just how many people I have trusted to belay me. My trust has been well-placed, because I've never been dropped. I haven't been short-roped in a while, either! I generally watch someone belay before I will ask them to belay me, or I will take the recommendation of a trusted climbing partner. When I'm at my limit on lead, I do prefer certain people belaying me, but all in all, climbing has taught me to trust far more than is in my nature.

I take belaying very seriously and never lose sight of the fact that my climber's safety and in fact their very life is in my hands. I have had a couple of big guys get a little nervous with me catching them the first time (because of my size), but when we meet at that first bolt, they never hesitate to whip again with me belaying. I tend to be more relaxed with someone who is on top rope or otherwise not pushing themselves (though still attentive), but if a climber is nervous, I give them whatever they need - even if they are 'only' on top rope. I won't even blink if they tell me not to.

Knowing how to belay well is an art form all its own. When you realize someone's life is on the other end of that rope, you tend to take it pretty seriously. I do my best to pay attention to the climber until they've reached the anchor and tell me they are direct or ready to come down. Anticipate (a little, not so much you hinder their climb) possible fall, know where you're standing in relation to trees, the rock, overhangs, how far will they fall if they fall here, will they swing, etc. Lots to think about & something to always improve on, for me at least.

I trust those who think about the above mentioned situations. If they are thinking about these things, I feel like they have a pretty good handle on how to catch me.

One thing I'd like to point out that I think is worth mentioning... when I'm belaying, the climber is really concentrating, I'm anticipating, the wind may be blowing... it really annoys me when someone walks up and wants me to get out my guide book and tell them how to get to different crags or routes, or wants to stand and talk to me the entire time. Maybe it's just me, but I like being able to communicate with the climber, watch the moves (to learn) and be involved in the belay process. Don't get me wrong. I love talking to people at the crag, and saying hi or have a good day is great. But long conversations take my mind away from my job. Maybe I just should be a better belayer, but does anyone else find this annoying?

Also, when someone is talking to my belayer and I'm not being paid attention to, I don't feel as safe. I know I won't deck, but I like the soft catch and know that my belayer is there for me.

I really trust the few people I climb with regularly on lead. I've got some other friends who I know I can count on for a good catch, and most other people I'll let belay me on an easier route before anything that I think I might actually fall on. One time I offered to run a TR up a route for some people and one of them said, "If you're leading it, I can give you a bellie." Bellie. That had me scared.

I'm pretty much the most inexperienced climber of most of the people I climb with (or at least the newest to the sport), but I guess I've picked up a thing or two since I've had a couple people tell me that if they had their choice of anyone on belay that they'd want me. Pretty cool.

I agree with Kclimb.

it really annoys me when someone walks up and wants me to get out my guide book and tell them how to get to different crags or routes, or wants to stand and talk to me the entire time.

Some people just don't get it. When I teach a climbing class, this is one of the first things I point out. The belayer's number one responsibility is the safety of the climber.

I'm in line with most of the thinking already stated so no sense in repeating it. My 80 lb 13 year old son is a great belayer on top rope and is really coming along on his lead climbing belay skills. It's cool to see him handling this responsibility with the level of focus he has.

GWG

I have moved over to the realm of trusting very few people to belay me. MIA always has my first preference. Anyone on team suck too. Jamen is a fantastic belay and so is Moya. Oh and Ho is pretty good too so is Meadows. There are a few others out there who I trust but I tell you, it isn't worth it to risk a bad belay. No matter how confident the belayer appears to be.

If you don't know how to fucking belay then do yourself a favor and just stop climbing now. Or goto your local climbing gym for instruction, they should offer a lead belay course as well as for top roping. If you are climbing and are worried about falling then you probably shouldn't be climbing either... but if it ever comes down to a situation were your belayer just sucks, then maybe you should think about how you put yourself in a situation were you are climbing with such gumbies. If you are a jackass yourself, and don't know how to teach someone how to properly belay, then suggest to them that they need to get professional instruction before they belay.

Thanks for listening. I've been wanting to say that since the beginning of this thread. I can tell my day has a bright outlook.