Unrepeated Sport Routes at the Red

[One-Fall]

What about the two vertical 12's at the Arena. Right before you get to the main wall. Has anyone done those?

[Guest]

The Snyd told me that Matt Nasty's ascent of WTOK didn't count since he used aid*.

























*tape gloves. I think he's a bitter old man, personally.

[allah]

No one had repeated Ramsey's route "White mans Shuffle" He bolted it this past fall and did it pretty fast, I think he is still hesitant to rate it, so someone needs to get on it and confirm it. he said it may be 13d/14a

Swingline, saw 2 ascents this past fall that I know of, Andrew, and Nate.

Which 12s are you talking about One-Fall?

CS everything you mentioned I know has seen a second ascent

[captain static]

According to my tally, I have heard nothing about repeats of the following 5.13-5.14's: God's Own Stone, Fifty Words for Pump, Black Gold, True Love, Transworld Depravity, & The Nothing.

[Andrew]

Transworld has seen a few repeats.

[allah]

black gold, true love, hvae both been repeated, and 50 words for pump hasnt been done, and i know nothing about the Nothing cause it is a pile

[the lurkist]

God's own stone has been done by Ben Cassel.
The great undone routes of the Red are Skeletor and Fifty Words For Pump.
Fifty Words has been attempted by Dave and Katey. Katey didn't get very far with linkage, but Dave was doing it but couldn't clip the fourth bolt. Several people have looked at it and tried to find better bolt positions but all agree that it is bolted as well as possible. The bolt just falls in the middle of a boulder problem. Dave thought the route was 14b.
Skeletor was originally bolted by me. I spent four days going up and down it. I put the bolts in it, then after thinking about it for a few days came back and plucked them. Never shy about putting up routes I couldn't do, with Skeletor I realized that not only would I never do it, but I couldn't imagine anyone ever doing it (and I have a pretty good imagination about what is possible). The bitch is that when taken apart move for move, every bit is conceivable. Fully drop the clutch bear down wicked hard boulder problems, but conceivable.
Chris Martin came along a few months later and rapped it, said "What the Hell." and put the gear back in it and left it for a community project.
We have discussed offering a bounty for it. Get folks to put up what ever change they can muster and lure some badass to give er a go. No chipping or modifying, of course, and a local has to witness the ascent.
To date, only Dave has tried it. He could do five moves on the route. He hasn't been back.

[captain static]

Thank you Lurk for the clarification. That is what I think is outstanding, what I think of as, "Red River Gorge, Known & Unknown". If routes of this grade were undone anywhere else, hardmen & hardwomen would be flocking to them. Why do we have to think we need to offer rewards for somebody to come do our unrepeated routes? Why are the hard, rarely repeated, routes overlooked by the climbing media? Do we still live under the Sharma stigma given to us that the Red is nothing more than crimp ladders?

[allah]

Lurk, I know of a few local homeys that would get one it, I would get on it too, but I told myself that i need to wait till I do the other route on the wall. People think of the red as a jug haul not a crimp ladder. atleast that is what i have heard from other areas, but you know fuck them ass holes, we climb at the red cause we have fun there, thats that

[SCIN]

Yea, it's funny that all of the assholes who dis on the Red but still travel to climb here. The Red is like a big amusement park, man.

We should start a pot on the board to collect funds for the bounty to send Skeletor. If it gets high enough, maybe Sharma or Graham would attempt it?