Unrepeated trad

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
Larry Day
Posts: 44
Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 3:30 am

Post by Larry Day »

I'd say the quality of experience was first order.
aaron

Post by aaron »

yeah i know about the big cams, just giving a nod to his affinity for ow.
i've done synchronicity, fun climb.
Crankmas
Posts: 3961
Joined: Wed Jan 15, 2003 5:24 pm

Post by Crankmas »

Did Joe send Pink Sock yet?
Guest

Post by Guest »

Pink Sock is a sport route. Spuzo has some pics of the route on her site, looks badass.
Yasmeen
Posts: 4663
Joined: Tue Oct 08, 2002 10:42 am

Post by Yasmeen »

http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuid ... .php?id=64

Is Pink Feat a face climb until you get to that crack up high or am I missing some small seam before that? Look's frickin hard...
"I snatched defeat from the jaws of victory." --Paul
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Wes
Posts: 6530
Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 3:46 pm

Post by Wes »

Face climb with one bolt and maybe some tri cams? I think it is much harder to start, since the ground is a couple feet lower now.

Wes
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda
captain static
Posts: 2438
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 6:05 pm

Post by captain static »

I would like to point out the Batman was done without cams which were not yet widely available at the time of the FA.
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh
Wes
Posts: 6530
Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 3:46 pm

Post by Wes »

Dude, you are such a chuffer.

Nice send and all, but how long ago was it? You are like those guys that made it to the state quarter finals in football thier Sr. year, and now just sit around and drink beer and watch the tapes.

Wes
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda
captain static
Posts: 2438
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 6:05 pm

Post by captain static »

Well maybee I'll just have to put up some new lines this season for you young chuffers to flail on! My whole point in bringing this up in the other thread was that bouldering and sport are not necessarily good training for trad. That specific upper body strengths, especially with the push muscles and abs are required to do hard trad. You are right Wes that the FA was done in my prime. I was a senior in college not high school though and had been climbing for about 7 years, mostly at Seneca. The biggest factor that I believe was the key to doing Batman was the fact that I was still doing gymnastics at that point in my life. I loved the still rings and could press a handstand, do levers, etc.
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh
Wes
Posts: 6530
Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 3:46 pm

Post by Wes »

And you are still spraying about it. Dude, just let go. I know it might seem hard and all, but just let it go.

Wes
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda
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