Thanks for the support bro. I need it with all these haters out there. So what would a 25' ceiling with positive half pad crimpers ans jugs go at? I am thinking heavy 11. light 12. Looks kinda reachy in spots, too.
If you guys wanna check it out the directions are. From 498 (the highway that you turn off of to go to bald rock raod.) follow 498 to its end and take a left on US 52. Go about two miles. Pass the turn off for Lago Linda camp ground and the first switchback after the turn off is a low cave with a huge black square painted over graffiti. Pull off in the curve and walk down to the cave. The climb starts on a incut jug ladder. The start is a running start off of a boulder that you can use as a launch pad. It truely is a very cool start!!! 8) Right now its tagged out so don't go because there are some loose rocks that I have to take care of first. I don't forsee it taking too long to get this climb. Everything is pretty obvious and straight foreward. I'll let you know how it goes.
I arrived at Miguels in the afternoon. Policed the area. Then set up my tent and tarp on the Pallets(out of the mud). Dinner was beans. Also started a crock pot in the Monastary full of beans. 1/2 cup=60 calories and 7 grams of protien. I ate about 2 1/2 cups for dinner. You gotta love the beans! Hamsco arrived at dusk. Arron arrived at 9 pm. He wasn't staying. just picking up beer for his party. I scored a 22 oz. "High Life". and yes, life is good!
Saturday,Hamsco wakes at 3am, stokes the fire. Hamsco wakes at 5am, stokes the fire. Hamsco wakes at 6am and starts talking. It is a good hour before the sun comes up. Oh, well. Coffe is good in the morning. Prepared a large breakfast of coffee, sausage, eggs and then tea for later. (I want to personally recommend the MSR dragonfly as a lgtwght cook stove. Sometimes they can be cantankerous, but over all they perform like a champ. I can do everything but bake with mine)
8am. Hamsco assured me that James (the notorious), would arrive shortly and we would depart for Mt. Olive rock. James arrives at 9:50am. We depart tout le suite for Mount Olive Rock by way of the S/R. We are going to inspect a new wall that I've discovered.
11 am, inspection complete. We saw a couple of good lines that we may develope.
11:10; we arrive at the site of my project. We spend the rest of the day aid climbing and bolting from skyhooks. Hamsco bolted on aid. He informs me that theis is a first for him. I demonstrate a bolting technique that I have developed. It involves sky hooks, two ropes and two belayers. Seige bolting ensues. James thinks that the line looks good but that I am very ambitious for bolting it.
4:30pm; we depart Mt Olive Rock. The crew is in an exploratory frame of mind and we explore several new walls. Hamsco is most impressed by the "moshe pit".
5:40pm; Dusk, we arrive back at miguels and prepare dinner. Beans again, they just keep getting better. Our pary is joined by Andrew. Several people stop by. there is an increase of traffic in the parking lot and at the campground commons as people arrive throughout the night.
11pm; James departs suddenly for parts unknown. By midnight we stuff the stove and close it up for the night.
1am; it is intolerably hot and I remove myself from the Monastary and sleep on one of the pic-nic tables.
7am; breakfast
8am; after heated discussion we decide on Roadside.
8:30am; Meadows( the mutineer!) arrives, Hamsco throws comradary to the wayside and mutinys with Meadows to Military wall. The group follows.
I spent the day belaying very valiant efforts by Andrew to send Nudgpapa. Andrew climbed a total of 9 routes. I T/R'd two routes. Worked on Fuzzy( very hard for its grade or I'm doing it wrong, I suspicion the latter)
Good conversation all day long.
5 pm; Back to the Monastary for more beans.
5:30pm; Police the area for stray material, secure electricity. Parlay with Miguel and co.
6:pm; Depart
Meadows, The view was nice. I just would've prefered to climb more. I was feeling bad in the hand. You saw it, how'd ya like to climb on hamburger!
I'm going easy on the right hand this week using lots of lotion and mostly my left.
You guysa missed out on the beans they were great. Next week I'm going to make cornbread! Maybe add some skinned tomatoes, More onions and tapatia hotsauce! MMMMMMmmmmmmMMM!!! 8) Stewy911,I gotta toughen up on this one. Its gonna be hard. It's out by Mt. Olive rock if you want to look at it. Crazy looking route!
I guess we'll have to do the beans next time. We just settled for some filet mignon, wine and creme brulee. I can't believe he chose that over your beans, but I just went where he wanted to go.
Your hand will heal dude, but you still had a good time.
