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I gym is definitly better, but man, I don't think I ever would have gotten strong at climb time or rockquest. I became my strongest playing on a 4' by 8' sheet of plywood.

Hey-
If anyone has a home wall, you should check out ETCH holds at www.earthtreksclimbing.com/etch. ETCH just started making holds and are shapes are pretty sweet. The texture is a big aggro, but nothing a bit of sandpaper can't fit if you have "delicate" hands.

Wes,
I don't have enough time in my day, or week to drive 30 minutes each way 2-3 times/week to boulder for 45min-1 hour. In the 30 minutes it would (or currently does when talking about Climbtime, or Rock Quest) take me to get to "your" spot (or mine, if there was one 30 min from Cincy) I could be finished training and on to other things I enjoy...like spending time with my girl, or reading, or something. M-Th I leave for work @ 5:45 and don't get home until 4:45 (slightly later on Tuesdays when I lift), then there's running on some days. When everything is added together, building my own wall is the most economical, practical and time/saving thing I can do and get the training I want in preparation for the Spring.

Climbing is not the only activity I enjoy, so I must fit it into the rest of my world. Things are really going to get ugly when I get serious about whitewater Kayaking.

I hope it works out for you then. I just got back from a kick ass sesh at LR, and was able to work lots of cool problems from 10 to 65 degrees and up to 20 feet or so on a bunch of different holds. No home woodie could provide even 10% of that variety of problems, set by several different people with different styles. So, that is why I think a good gym is the way to go. If you are just training, the I would just get some campus rungs, a hang board, and a set of HIT holds and not worry so much about setting problems.

Wes

I just came in from working out on my home wall. I get a way better workout than the local gym, and it is just out the back door. I rarely go to the gym too many people, greasy holds etc. I have over 1000 holds so I can set dozens of problems from vert to way steep.

Doooood, My buddy "garage climber" has made a large portion of his garage into a climbing gym and it has been amazing for me and my buddies improvement in our skills. Its not hard to keep motivated as long as ya have a few buddies who all want to climb as well... we all have off nights and sometimes we just spot eachother or drink beer and talk about climbing or grip technique ( or my lack there of) But we always push eachother and I cant thank any of them enough for how far along they have brought my climbing. I am sure if you have any questions you could e-mail "garage climber" and he would be happy to help ya out.
good luck!

It's basic economy. 25 miles to gym x 2 x $1.45/gal=$3.63 gas+ $6 fee=$9.63/day to climb at Climb Time + 1 hour of my time wasted in transit x 3 = $28.88/week and 3 hours driving. Now, I can get a monthly or quarterly membership to reduce the fee to climb so it's only like $40-50/month, but I'm still paying $44 (so $84-94/month total) minimum in gas/month and spending 12 hours driving to/from the gym. Basically, what I am saying, Wes, is, if you have access to real rock 30 minutes from you and that's your focus, bouldering, then great and you are fullfilling your climbing desire. Bouldering for me is fun, but just training for longer climbs and as such, I don't have the draw to drive to the rock to boulder, like you do (and wouldn't do so when it's 40 degrees outside). I'm not saying what you're doing is wasteful, I'm saying it doesn't make sense to or for me and my goals on rock.

To quote dhoyne's thoughts on my previous post and basically my course of action...

dhoyne wrote:

Cold sucks. Use your wall. Train hard.

Dude, train your ass off man! Sounds like you're gonna be building a kick ass woody.

Probably the best woody I've climbed on was in a shed the size of my bedroom. I'm sure everyone knows Noah from New Orleans. Well, it was soooo small but Noah's motivation, guidebook (he actually had a guidebook for his woody), and friends made it one of the coolest places to climb. And man...there were some strong ass boys pulling down on Noah's woody.

Training is all about motivation. If someone is motivated enough, their treadmills, windtrainers, woodys, etc. will be worn to shit.

you need to check out spoonmans gym, 3500 sq ft of pure bouldering at every angle imaginable.

Since I started working I have jumped up 2 grades it's great. But im getting sick of having to spend all my time at that hell hole. I need to rope up. Good luck with the wall.

DaggerX