Bouldering Shoes-Your Opinion?

[hoss]

I recently purchased a pair of Katanas and boy do they suck. The rubber started seperating from the rand after two sessions. Since then they've gotten progressively worse. This isn't due to oversloppy footwork. I've never had a pair of shoes crap out this quick. When I emailed sportiva asking them to replace this pair of lemons they didn't even bother to reply. Screw Sportiva, Five-Ten makes the best shoes on the market.

[garageclimber]

word

[Christian]

LL bean insulated gore tex pacboots

[captain static]

Eenie meenie miney mo 5.10 or Sportiva which way to go? I was checking out a pair of Dragons this weekend and they were pretty sweet. I like the turned down toe design. I have previously had Mirage's and really liked the prehensile toe action.

Yeah Christian, my first outdoor bouldering was slab and vertical in Gaston Rebuffat Mountaineering Boots!

[DaggerX]

Mad rock mugens all they way. By far sticker rubber then C4 and confy for a bouldering shoe.

DaggerX

[captain static]

I am willing to check anything out, including Mad Rock. I didn't realize that 5.10 is discontinuing the Dragons. I tried on the only pair left at CT last night. They were a half-size larger than my Anasazi's. The right foot fit tight but not unbearably. The left foot was too tight. I am afraid that if I went a half-size up (even if I could find them) they would be too big. The V-10's are not out of the question but I wonder if I would run into a similar sizing issue?

[Guest]

Capt, I'm hearing an overwhelming amount of negative feedback about Mad Rocks falling apart. I'd check out Evolves first - so far I've heard only good things about them.

I should have my new Katanas in a few days - I'll let you know what I think about them relative to the Miura. Someone mentioned that Sportiva quaility is shit, and I'd have to agree but only just a tiny bit. My last 2 pairs of Sportivas have had premature delam problems in the soles. In both cases it was very minor and nothing that a little shoo goo can't handle. Otherwise they are holding up really well. Also, Sportiva will repair/replace your shoes under warranty for any problem - I just don't want to be without them for any length of time.

[DaggerX]

I have much better luck with mad rocks, then I have ever had with any 5.10 shoe. 5.10 is like a gamble sometime you get lucky and get a pair that last but then again sometimes they only last for a week.

DaggerX

[stix]

As a general rule 5.10s fall delam quicker than most other shoes, but it seems like sandy is right and sometimes you do get a pair that seems to hold up. I currently have a pair of mocasyms that are darn near worn all the way through the sole and haven't delamed yet. I've also seen others disintigrate on the first session. These days though i'd have a hard time shellin out the dough for sportivas or 5.10 when companies like mad rock and evolv are puttin out shoes that perform just as well for better prices. I've climbed in both and liked them just as well as the big brands. I did have trouble with my mad rocks fallin apart, but they were some of the first ones out and i've heard they've addressed the problem. I'm climbing in evolvs right now and am diggin em. They are holdin up well also. You can get the sole ground down to make them more sensitive, which is cool cuz the midsole is still stiff enough to make em edge well. They are comin out with a velcro and slipper around the first of the year that are almost identical to v10 and dragons as well.

[captain static]

Thanks for that input stix. Since it seems my left foot is a tad bigger than my right, the Evolv custom fit might not be a bad idea. I'm gonna try the Rocks too as you can't beat the price.