Why don't news organizations have their articles 'lingo checked' by actual climbers before they run them? Here's an example:
Gyms require climbers to work in teams, with one working the route while a partner is "on belay," making sure there's no slack in the rope to keep falls to a minimal distance.
On the one hand, they use climber slang 'working the route' where it is likely to be confusing, and then they moderately misuse 'on belay', which belies their lack of real understanding of the terminology. It would be so easy to catch and clean up, but these sorts of things are in every major media piece about climbing! (Although it's usually a lot worse than this stuff - at least they didn't mix up 'free climbing' with 'free soloing')
I'll bet that the way that Florine and this kid would aproach the Nose/Half Dome link-up would be with Florine doing a lot (maybe all) of the leading, but with tons of simulclimbing. That's been the main speed climbing strategy recently. If the kid can haul while following 10ish stuff, that supposedly covers big chunks of the two routes.
I know everyone is having fun sniping at eachother about the 'gender wars' stuff - but from what I've seen teaching loads of newbies, the women who give it a serious try tend to be better than men at first, particularly on vertical and slab routes (which is where newbies should be, anyway). In the longer run, the greater raw strength that men can develop lets them outpace equivalent women - especially on the overhanging and 'bouldery' routes that are most popular in gyms.