RRC Archives

pigsteak wrote:tomdarch..I wish to vote to add that southern IL climbing to the list...if you are with a local, the routes at Jackson in the 12a and above range are as good as any at the Red....Balance of Power, Team Honda, Working Class, Detox, The Reckoning, Viking Blood, Cro Magnon Warrior, Velvet Green..not a single bad move on any of those lines...

Also,the bouldering is high quality at the holy boulders, and our new "secret" area...

yo piggie...i thought detox and the reckoning are 11d now...?? because i flashed and on-sighted them

rhunt..
flashed or onsighted them? or am I missing something in the definitions of these two terms? lol

you are right..I bet the new guidebook by Ulner (due out in stores never) will have them as 11d...The Reckoning is still 12a...but hands down detox is 11d...sorry, cause ro shampoo is also 11d...

btw, I see that in the online guide here all those 12a's at military are at least 12b now..did I miss something...or are people getting weak?

Well piggie...if you remember the events of the fall of what 1999. You came to the Red and flashed my project "Mercy the Huff" and so I came to Jackson that same fall and flashed The Reckoning..your project at the time.

The next day is when I on-sighted Detox 12a but then of course since I on-sighted it, it's now 11d...wow, now I know how Katie feels

Not sure about the 12a's at Military...but some stuff broke years ago on Gung Ho and that might have changed to grade to a 'b'.

Wes,
That's a fine tally for five years! I'm sitting here wondering if after 12 years I can claim as much.

I second whoever said it: the one glaring omission is the Gunks. Go there, on a weekday, as soon as you can!

Adding routes at Tennessee Wall, Looking Glass, or Whitesides might also boost your status as a southern hardman. They're all only a half-days drive away and climbable through winter. Knowing that you like to push your mental edge, I'd recommend going to Whitesides. On the Original route you'd solo 5.7 sections, but on the 5.9 or harder there is enough pro.

Two weeks ago at Looking Glass, I was reminded just how terrifying 5.8 slab can be, especially when all you've been climbing is overhanging buckets. But with you're diverse ticklist, that shouldn't be a problem.

Bravo,
Gabriel

I have made trips to T-wall and the glass, just got shut out because of weather or lack of key gear (which I forgot). I will be back to both for sure. And I see several trips to the bald this winter as well. Mostly for the pebble wrestling thing, but I will bring a rack at least once or twice.


Wes

Wes you really need to go to Fremont it rocks.

hmmm statistics.....

5 years?? you expect me to remember 5 years worth of climbing. Let's look at just this year so far.

i have climbed about 148 days out of the year so far

i climbed 37 pitches one 4 day stretch, 31 of them being multi-pitch and I bouldered hard the day before the 4 day stretch

i have climbed 30 multi-pitch (over 4 pitches) climbs this year so far

i have climbed in 21 states so far this year

i have driven through 43 of the states just to climb in the 21 in the last year so far.

i have climbed in 3 countries so far this year

i have participated in one first ascent this year so far.

and

the red is still my favorite sport climbing area.

I like gum.

Ok i wasted some time this morning and figured out all the areas i have been too. I have been climbing for ten years but I have only been climbing regularly for the last six. So far I have been to 68 areas in the US and 73 overall in the world. I have no clue how wes calculated the amount of days he climbed or the amount of pitches though. he is the man.


anyway here are my area's. Can people see the one major major area that i haven't climbed at yet?


Paramount Rock, ID
Rire Reseviour, ID
Ross Park, ID
City of Rocks, ID
Jackson Hole Crag, WY
Boulder City, WY
Grand Teton, WY
Jenny Lake Boulders, WY
Hidden Spot, MT
Blodgett Canyon, MT
Marymoor Park, WA
Darrington, WA
Leavenworth, WA
Exit 38, WA
Exit 32(Little Si), WA
Index, Wa
Smith Rocks, OR
Buttermilks, CA
Happy Boulders, CA
Sad Boulders, CA
Druid Stones, CA
Owen River Gorge, CA
Little Egypt, CA
Joshua Tree, CA
Red Rocks, NV
Oak Flats, AZ
Bird Sanctuary, AZ
Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT
Big Cottonwood Canyon, UT
Joe's Valley, UT
Indian Creek, UT
Wall Street, UT
Fisher Towers, UT
Big Bend Boulders, UT
Moe's Valley, UT
Hueco Tanks, TX
Enchanted Rock, TX
Barton Creek Greenbelt, TX
Rock City, KS
Eldorado Canyon, CO
Lumpy Ridge, CO
Rocky Mountain Nation Park, CO
Flagstaff Mountain, CO
Garden of the Gods, CO
Golf Wall, CO
Turtle Lake, CO
Ouray, CO
Meat Packing Plant, SD
Mississippi Palisades, IL
Cook County Boulder, IL
Harbor Wall, IL
Devil's Lake, WI
Red River Gorge, KY
New River Gorge, WV
The Gunks, NY
Central Park Boulders, NY
Whitehorse, NH
Cathedral Ledge, NH
Rumney, NH
Sunset, NH
Acadia, ME
North Haven Boulders, ME
Rocktown, GA
Grandmother, NC
Lost Cove, NC
Rumbling Bald, NC
Little Rock City, TN
Horse Pens 40, AL


Squamish, BC, Canada
Niagra Glen, Canada
Portrero Chico, Mexico
Fontainebleau, France
Kodai Kanal, India

Just guesstamated based on ave. number of days per week climbed X routes/problems per day.


Wes