RRC Archives

Nice work! That thing looks tough. Nick freed it a few years ago. Check the online guide.

Artsay wrote:Nice work! That thing looks tough. Nick freed it a few years ago. Check the online guide.

That's what I'd assumed but I'd heard a rumor that it was only done with preplaced gear.

I'm not sure if Nick placed his gear or not. Regardless, the FFA still applies if someone sends with preplaced gear or places on lead according to history. I'll stick to those principles in the online guide. If someone else does it placing gear on lead it just means they sent it with better style. That's how it's been in the past with the big dog tradfathers (Yaniro, Hong, Bachar, Kauk (Magic Line..only 5.14 in Yosemite), Jardine, Suzuki, Hiryama, Skinner, Piana).

Numerous trad lines were first freed with preplaced gear. Climbing Magazine and Rock and Ice magazine have always made it a point in the past to mention that a line was done with preplaced gear though. I think that's a good way to handle it. Sure, the guy who does a route with preplaced gear gets the FFA in the magazines but it'll always say (with preplaced gear) near his/her kudos/props. Some routes demand it though (Magic Line and numerous Skinner big wall free ascents) due to the extreme difficulty of placing gear on previous aid routes.

Nice work on that thing though. It's cool as shit.

To counter the idea of Loren as the next "Che Guevera" and more towards the Los Lobos, I would like to point out that the man drinks way to much coffee. Evident by the ever present coffee cup. He says that he gets his coffee from the "coop" in "Bloomington" but I think it is all a front. You know he goes for the Maxwell house and just reuses the same "fair trade" bag each trip to the Red. Stop oppressing the masses!!!

Also, anyone consider that the coffee mug might actually be some sort of James Bond/Q-device? You could easily hide a bug in it. Any thoughts?

Watch out Max! Loren may be training you to follow in his insidious footsteps. I agree with the sentiment that if Loren says you rock the caspa with leading trad you rock because, well, skill is skill. But use your new skills for good and to get away from the sneaky-evil ways of "Loren"-if that is his real name!

I think that VA may be onto something here. Doesn't loren know that every time you purchase a cup of Maxwell house coffee, you actually HELP the TERRORISTS kill a family of poor Guatemalan coffee farmers? What a dick! Not only does he walk around, offending people with his smell and his bugs, be he sports the coffee cup full of Maxwell house as if it is some sort of badge of honor. You all can hang around with him if you want to. I for one though am going to give his hillbilly, Maxwell house drinking, dirty clothes wearing ass a wide berth. You are just asking for trouble by hanging around with the likes of him (not to mention contributing to the killing of coffee farmers in Guatemala). Think about it.

Well said ray.