Muscle beach definitely needs love, I'll be out there friday so I'll replace muscle schoals. Vector trouble needs it but inhibitor looked alright last i was on it (last fall).dustonian wrote:For sure. Also I can't remember but I imagine Muscle Beach could use some love. As could Vector Trouble. And Inhibitor? One or both of those has a shitty tree anchor for such a popular route.
Notice to Tradies
Re: Notice to Tradies
-
- Posts: 254
- Joined: Wed Dec 11, 2002 11:27 pm
Re: Notice to Tradies
Update: Dip Wall---- The death rigged rap anchor on 'Theodor Seuss Geisel' has been replaced, the dead tree/rhodo anchor on 'God Save the Queen' is now on the wall at the back of the ledge at the top out, the rap tree anchor now hanging off the ledge on the 'Lorax Tree' will be replaced. For now shuffle right past the top of 'Star-Bellied Sneeches' to a rap tree. The Dome--- The dead rhodo/rope knot in crack, belay/rap anchor, 2 to 3 pitch of Private Duty Nurses has been replaced. Climb Safe.
Re: Notice to Tradies
Nice work Mikes, appreciated!
Re: Notice to Tradies
Pebbly Poo could use some new gear up top. The anchors on it now set your rope up to be eaten by the crack.
"You're a long way from home now, Buddy" - Ted kindly pointing out a ran out mess.
-
- Posts: 254
- Joined: Wed Dec 11, 2002 11:27 pm
Re: Notice to Tradies
If you are up at Dunkin Rock and top out on 'What's Left of the Beeneling' (nothing), be aware that there will be at least one Copperhead to greet you! Seen yesterday under the right side of the block sitting at the top of the crack. Climb Safe.
Re: Notice to Tradies
Thanks for all your work, guys! This is something I'd love to learn how to do and take part in should you need some help and be willing to teach some time.
Re: Notice to Tradies
I have some hardware I'd be happy to donate, and am more than willing to donate some time. I've never placed a bolt above ground but it would be good to learn.
Re: Notice to Tradies
Was just at fortress wall. Wanted to mention that the anchors on bombs bursting are poorly equalized. One ring is a few inches higher than the other, meaning you end up rapping off one ring only and the other would be shock loaded in the case of a break. Another chain link or two would likely solve this, but I'm in no way an expert. Far as I know this could've been unequalized intentionally, can't PM yet or I'd have just sent a message and unfortunately I didn't bring a camera on the climb...dfspau2 wrote:Once I get back in Aug., I would like to spend the day replacing some stuff at Fortress... If anyone is interested we can plan something...
Re: Notice to Tradies
If you are cleaning the route, the rope pulls the system over to the right, equalizing it. The anchors are not dangerous currently for rapping or lowering, certainly no danger of 'shock load.'
Sandstone deposits in layers, offsetting the anchors with a long and short chain is a good idea in that particular stone to achieve redundancy. If you put both anchors in the same stratum, stress fracture in one anchor could propagate to the other.
Sandstone deposits in layers, offsetting the anchors with a long and short chain is a good idea in that particular stone to achieve redundancy. If you put both anchors in the same stratum, stress fracture in one anchor could propagate to the other.