RRC Archives

Agreed. Are we climbing rocks or running a babysitting service here?

pigsteak wrote: personally when I bolt the line my primary question to myself is: how will a climber who is totally confident/competent and comfortable at this grade feel about the line. ..... if the grade is within your comfort range, expect to be pleased with the balance of the entire experience.

Well put!

Thanks for the hard work involved with putting up routes you guys!

I love the little extra air you get and commitment, assuming it does not end on the ground or a ledge. Soul Ram comes to mind as that type of route. Bolts are maybe 10 or 12 feet apart? That is pretty much vertical and falls are non issue with a soft catch.


However, gratuitous bolting does have its place for people learning how to lead and fall. I would say keep them closer together if the character the wall is more beginner to lower intermediate (5.8 to 5.10). So maybe keep places like Left Field and the Playground closer together but not so much at the warm up routes at the Darkside or Brightside.

For climbs getting into 5.11 or above... you should know how to fall by then. Space it out unless it is a wall like Great wall that attracts the gumbies with the 5.6 to 5.10 range.

pigsteak wrote:With the recent comments about "bad bolting jobs" I was wondering what all the chode chuffers on here thought. Is there room for sporty sport lines? Is it the job of the developer to make your experience stress free? We hate the perma police but then we demand that certain sport lines be fixed....

Do mixed lines also have to follow this protocol? If my bolts are perfectly placed but you suck at placing gear and deck, is that my fault?

Why not bring a bit of sauce back to the game? Climbers should always have the option of down climbing.

SEARCH FUNCTION N00B!!!!!111

http://www.redriverclimbing.com/viewtop ... =5&t=14891

The guy who posted this thread seems to have some very informative opinions on this topic. Maybe you could even send him a PM to discuss more?

Nick, changed my mind. Like I said before, you are not worth responding to.

All this said, I noticed that many of the lines in the guidebook don't list the equipper and only the FA (sometimes not the same person). I'm more interested in the bolting rather than the person who sent, although both pieces of info are relevant.

i appreciate Dustin's review of the current meanings of the various styles and whatnot, i guess i still kind of go by the Bachar-Yerian standard and would consider that a 'sport' route, which i guess would be a 'traditional' sport route as opposed to the nouveau 'sport' route?

climb2core wrote:Nick, you rock! Your memes make me look cool... Can I hire you to design my next facebook page?

You gotta love this site!

Nick, I have a huge man crush on you...