RRC Archives

ha, the epic 5.7 in eldo. Yeah, that's slang for Eldorado canyon, slang was invented when I was in fourth grad so you might not have caught on.

lol...since I thought all real trad climbers had sent the bastille and devils tower and at least something in yosemite, I thought that would give me street cred.....

I hate falling. It's still scary... every time. That said, I've taken 40 footers on gear and 70 footers on bolts. The best way I know to combat it is to make the decision when you leave the ground, or when you begin climbing, to not fall....either onsight or redpoint. Once I've decided this, then falling is not even a concern. If I do fall, it happens so fast that it's easy, and of no concern.

Seems like everyone has to take a bad one before rope management sinks in. If you catch the rope behind any part of your leg and you are above your gear you will likely take a scary-dangerous, or deadly fall. I am not so wack out about fall as I am wacked out about falling badly. If the rope snakes behind my ankle or if I see it happen to my partner while I am on belay, that is when the fear creeps up.
point 2 here: http://www.climbingtechniques.org/clipp ... -lead.html
point 6 here: http://www.climbing.com/exclusive/featu ... ndex1.html (50 ways to fail rock climbing)

i've not read either of the books mentioned but otherwise i don't care much for any of the suggestions, not to say they don't work for some people. some of the possible 'psychology' that could be involved does interest me though. i think like the primary senses fear is telling us something. as an emotional response we can use it to mature our behavior. in one interpretation (to me), this is what 5.12ow is doing. more generally, your question could be considered an excellent example of how to cope with fear. try to understand it and deal with it rationally/methodically. climb within your approximate skill level. recognize dangers. mitigate risks.
taking falls does displace the unknown with the newly familiar, so that's beneficial, but taking falls intentionally to feel safer taking falls seems to assume the conclusion.

Just think of this picture while climbing

just dont befriend him and then ditch him later.

512OW wrote:I hate falling. It's still scary... every time. That said, I've taken 40 footers on gear and 70 footers on bolts. The best way I know to combat it is to make the decision when you leave the ground, or when you begin climbing, to not fall....either onsight or redpoint. Once I've decided this, then falling is not even a concern. If I do fall, it happens so fast that it's easy, and of no concern.

onsight, redpoint...or grabbing draws...don't ever forget the third option.....

andrew, i think that picture is mainly used to get teens to stop masturbating....

Or to lure them into andrews basement