Bolts Blowing

[rjackson]

And sometimes you're funny...

[weber]

Last weekend (2/25/12) J.J. (the original developer) and Ed LaPlante worked out a nice solution for this climb. The first bolt was left as is. It is solid and about 15 feet off the deck, so is clipable even with the tent pole stick clips. A new 6-inch x 5/8-inch dia. glue-in was installed in high quality rock about 18 inches above the original second bolt that fell out when the rock around it disintegrated. An 18-inch permadraw was attached, which brought the clipping biner down to where the second bolt used to be. Then another glue-in was placed between the permadraw-equipped bolt and the first bolt. It's the climber's choice whether or not to clip here, but at least it's an option for some of us who are faint of heart. Note that this climb still remains a mixed route (at least for now) until a final bolt is installed higher up on the climb. Until then, take 3 or 4 mid-range cams with you.

[One-Fall]

That is some fast response time. Much appreciated.

[rjackson]

Thanks Rick. Now if I can just find a belay...

[dustonian]

I know... it's tough when you don't trust anyone except Jeff!

[Jeff]

I think he's saying he doesn't like my belay Dustin.

And +1 on the fast response RIck and JJ!

[rjackson]

I was thinking my new nickname might be Step-On-A-Crack-Broken-Mirror-Black-Cat...

[Cleveland]

Pay attention and be alert out there. This happened so fast and un-expectadly. Very happy things turned out as they did though because if anything was done differently, the outcome could have been much worse.

I would like to hear what you did to keep the climber from decking. I'm assuming that you started to run backwards but do you have any other tricks up your sleeve?

[One-Fall]

Human crashpad.

[Jeff]

Human crashpad.

Pretty much like Lee said.
As far as tricks up my sleeve, I can occasionally move like lightning, but there's usually a snake involved in that scenario.
Really just the luck of everything coming together.
Had I not been standing directly under Russ when the rock blew, he would have decked.
Had he gone in direct before the rock blew, I probably would have paid out a touch of slack to give the rope a rest (and maybe stepped to the side a bit), which would have resulted in decking.
Happened too fast to run backward, so, like Lee said I and a rhodo helped break the fall, preventing a direct head slam.

Of course if Russ would have left the half of his rack not needed for this climb on the ground, it probably never would have happened, and if he had heeded the black cat crossing his path and other close call on the way to the crag warnings, it might not have happened.