RRC Archives

where can I get this as a bumper sticker???? love it!

Dat's what she said! lol!

Toy wrote:Why ya gotta call me out like that Gene? Thought I'd fooled everyone all this time and ya gotta go and squash my dreams of glory. I would expect this from your brother, but not you!

Nah, my bro is too nice. He'd let you get away with that BS all day long.

So my question is this: Why get to the top and only clip one anchor? fixed draws with only one on there, ok, i kinda get it. but man if you got up there and couldn't hold on to clip the second that's a different story. And believe me I'm familiar with the situation I was great at getting to the final jug and not being able to clip. but I also got back on 'em and climbed up and clipped the bastards.

yaaaaaaaawwwwnnnn

gneiss wrote:So my question is this: Why get to the top and only clip one anchor? fixed draws with only one on there, ok, i kinda get it. but man if you got up there and couldn't hold on to clip the second that's a different story. And believe me I'm familiar with the situation I was great at getting to the final jug and not being able to clip. but I also got back on 'em and climbed up and clipped the bastards.

I guess he has more grit to get it done the first time...

but that's the thing... he didn't get it done the first time.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t-btPtpkMr4

Skip to about 10:18 if you want to watch the finish...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gOC15Atu39U&NR=1

skip to about 13:40 for the 1 draw send on this one..

So should Ondra remove this 8c+ onsight, or 9b send from his 8a score card because he only clipped one biner at the chains? And don't tell me, but there was only ONE to clip while my buddies route had TWO... By that logic, if there were 6 biners at the chains, do you need to clip all 6? Or, say on that day he sent his 11a... if there was only ONE pre-placed draw at the chains, is it a send then in your books?

look neither you nor your buddy climb to impress me. so you should do what you want and be happy with it. same as i do. however, you asked the question and my personal answer is if you get to the top and don't clip the anchors it's not a send. That seems to be the way your buddy saw it too and I agree with him.

climbing's a personal thing. if you didn't want to hear what people thought you shouldn't have asked.

i guess what it comes down to is that there are standards set for most climbs. steep climbs with fixed draws in the red and only 1 at the top i suppose the standard is to clip 1. superplafond at Volx the standard is to climb to the 4th bolt dry the manky seeping undercling. lower to the second bolt and sprint through the 4th before it gets wet again. but my feeling is that the standard for MOST climbs is to climb up and clip the anchors that are there. be it 2 or 3 or 6. if you can find one with 6.

exactly gneiss...they wouldn't be asking if they were comfy with clipping one.