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Re: Alpine-Up New Trad/ Multipitch Belay Device

Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 3:42 am
by rmcfall
That's liability management.

To your point though--agreed, devices shouldn't be treated as auto-lockers. My point is though that the Click-Up does not function the same as a Gri-Gri or other device that has an auto-locking capability when used properly.

Re: Alpine-Up New Trad/ Multipitch Belay Device

Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 3:48 am
by rmcfall
Personally, I've enjoyed using the Sum. My only complaint is that lowering can be difficult with it sometimes.

What about the recent accident?
We're inherent problems discovered?

Re: Alpine-Up New Trad/ Multipitch Belay Device

Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 4:12 am
by caribe
I would have no problem taking a whip on grigri or clickup that is properly loaded and anchored with the brake unattended. They have about the same level of autolock capabilities. I don't feel that way about the sum.

The issues most often seem to be with devices which can be held open, and frequently are during SOP.
rmcfall wrote:I know this thread is about the Alpine-Up, but since the Click-Up is also mentioned and there are similarities between the two, I thought I'd share my recent experience with the device. I was under the impression that the Click-Up was an auto-locker and possibly a good alternative to the Gri-Gri.

Re: Alpine-Up New Trad/ Multipitch Belay Device

Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 4:14 am
by caribe
rmcfall wrote:Personally, I've enjoyed using the Sum. My only complaint is that lowering can be difficult with it sometimes.

What about the recent accident?
We're inherent problems discovered?
Yes . . . Go back through the history in the other thread and watch the videos.

Re: Alpine-Up New Trad/ Multipitch Belay Device

Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 4:17 am
by caribe
rmcfall wrote:That's liability management.

To your point though--agreed, devices shouldn't be treated as auto-lockers. My point is though that the Click-Up does not function the same as a Gri-Gri or other device that has an auto-locking capability when used properly.
Be more explicit please. How are they different?

Re: Alpine-Up New Trad/ Multipitch Belay Device

Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 4:20 am
by dustonian
Oh great, now you've gone & gotten Arty all riled up again... it could take weeks for him to calm down again. Clickup still got you on retainer or what, Arthur??

Re: Alpine-Up New Trad/ Multipitch Belay Device

Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 4:37 am
by rmcfall
I believe a whip on the click-up with brake unattended would be fine. In fact, the larger the fall the better I believe the click-up works. It's the other scenarios I mentioned (clipping the anchor and sitting back before saying "take," toproping, short lead falls, etc) that would be problematic if the brake hand end of the rope is unattended.

Here's what I did..... I climbed up a short way and clipped into the bolt. My belayer then tied a knot in the rope a few feet down on the brake end. With the belayer's brake hand off the rope, I unclipped and took a mini fall. Problem was, I only stopped once the knot wedged itself into the device.

I thought about trying this with the knot even further down the cord, but I suspect in that scenario the device would auto lock because of the greater force of the longer fall.

So again, no issue with big whips.

Re: Alpine-Up New Trad/ Multipitch Belay Device

Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 4:50 am
by Rotarypwr345704
:)