Incredible 5.9

Post by **Danny** » Mon Nov 11, 2002 9:59 pm

Hey TRAD-SUCKER, I did your routes. They are pretty darn nifty

Post by **TRAD-SEEKER** » Tue Nov 12, 2002 6:43 pm

Did you do the thin crack left of BCW... Rebar! How hard is it?

Post by **Danny** » Wed Nov 13, 2002 3:04 pm

Yea, I did do Rebar. Another great route! I think it is tough to grade because it is rather unusual but I'd say at least 11a. It's clean, has great gear and is very fun and unique -- what more can you ask for? Oh it stays perfectly dry regardless of the weather. There were waterfalls cascading all around us and these routes were perfectly dry.

Post by **SCIN** » Wed Nov 13, 2002 3:13 pm

Man, I couldn't get the motivation to do Rebar. It seemed a little contrived because at what point do you tell yourself "Okay, it's time to traverse to the harder crack now" after climbing the easy crack? I mean, I felt like I kept climbing up higher and higher on BCW and was still able to reach over to Rebar.

Post by **TRAD-SEEKER** » Wed Nov 13, 2002 3:47 pm

You just traverse over when it feels the easiest. You don't want to wait too long though, traversing at the lip would be a mistake. The rock to left and below BCW anchors is bad. So you should traverse left in one of two places, either just when BCW starts to get wider, or a little higher, even with a hand jam, this will make the route a little less sustained.

Post by **Danny** » Thu Nov 14, 2002 1:42 am

SCIN, I know what you are talking about. I kept going up the 9 and saw all the chalk below me on the small crack and was like -- why? I found a really easy place to get over but the rest of the route is still very interesting. It would be cool if that abiguity wasn't there though. I think the chalk causes the mind fuck.