Re: had close call recently
Posted: Tue Aug 09, 2011 5:18 pm
I didn't read all the comments, but Art I had a similar experience once. I let a good friend and regular climbing partner lead on my pre-placed gear. He had a bad fall at the top of Father and Son. His foot stayed in the crack and he fell below it (because he did this weird high step foot jam...). Fortunately my pieces were bomber, and I sewed it up, too. The gear stayed put, but the tendons pulled bone from his ankle. It was a rough carry out. He hasn't climbed since... My take away from that was that I would NEVER let anyone lead on my gear again, even though it wasn't a factor in his injuries. But what if it had been? I would have never forgiven myself, even though I have zero doubts about my gear placement ability. And the reason behind my confidence (or former confidence, heh, since I don't climb anymore) was that I followed and cleaned for a long time before I ever led my first trad route. And even after all the time following, I paid for and took guided instruction - twice (totalling 4 days) - before I did. I think following and cleaning teaches budding trad leaders more about gear placement than leading on someone else's gear. (I continue to analyze other people's placements when I clean.) The the next step would be going up on top rope while placing gear and having a competent leader follow and critique each piece. Some people pick it up quicker than others and you can't spend too much time learning this stuff correctly. Just my 2 cents, unadjusted for inflation