RRC Archives

I did that once too on a 3/8", but it was because I bottomed out the hole... easy (& quite heartbreaking) to do when hand-drilling on lead!

I assume you had to redrill the hole as the wedge and sleeve were stuck in there, no? We'll never know for sure unless you reused the hole...

no, that is the weird part..like truly, I had perhaps 10-15 ft lbs of torque on the thing..it snapped under incredibly low pressure..I was able to take my fingers and pull the rest out of the hole.....

Huh, so you were able to reuse the same hole with a different bolt? It doesn't take much torque to snap the bolt if it does bottom out... not that that's what happened anyway. I'm sure Powers has factory defects like any other company... blame China.

i think you're WAY more likely to be injured hiking up to the cliff than by a bolt failing. to my knowledge, there are no recorded cases of serious injury or death in RRG due to bolt failure - and total bolt failures can be counted on 1 hand. on the other hand there are HUNDREDS (if not thousands) of serious injuries due to belayer failure.

make sure you learn how to properly set up and clean anchors BEFORE you leave the gym. contact www.redriveroutdoors.com if you're not 100% solid with this. the U-Climb clinics (spring in the new, fall in the red) are also a great way to learn how to transition from outdoor to indoor climbing. http://www.mountaingear.com/uclimb/even ... eventid=15

bentley wrote:The answer to your question is no

On a slightly different note good luck with this post cause your about to be raped over the coals! Be sure to double check your knot and make sure your belayer knows exactly what they are doing. The red is a great plAce and you will have a great time! Seriously.

Bentley, You just wasted a perfect opportunity to work on our problem with overcrowding at the Red

Yes, bolts come out frequently and people are constantly falling to their deaths at the Red due to shoddy bolting in soft choss by people who know nothing about setting routes. Tell everyone that this is a dangerous place to climb and nobody should ever attempt to come to the Red (at least for the next 25 years or so). Spread the word!

You should most certainly be wary of bolts pulling out. This sandstone is super soft and chossy. I would never trust my life to a bolt that was placed by someone other than myself, especially in the RRG. You're probably better off climbing on trad lines, you can trust that kind of protection since you place it yourself. You are probably better off to reschedule your trip and go climb at Seneca, The Gunks, or T-Wall. Plus, everyone knows that sport climbing is neither.

jonlong724? bolts "pulling out"? & most surprisingly, 2 pages of replies?

troll

Ha, nice catch ahab, welcome back

Pulling bolts is one thing.
Just don't pull out your nuts.

At first glance i thought it said "'bolts that put out'"