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Re: Gym Crushers

Posted: Thu May 05, 2011 1:42 am
by climb2core
So the answer is everyone climbs harder outside, but only if you post on this site. Got it.

Re: Gym Crushers

Posted: Thu May 05, 2011 2:10 am
by pigsteak
noooooo, it means that ratings at the Red are super soft, and people 'think" they are rock studs on the stone.

Re: Gym Crushers

Posted: Thu May 05, 2011 2:26 am
by dustonian
I for one know I am not "rock stud"... I flail equally on all varietals.

Re: Gym Crushers

Posted: Thu May 05, 2011 2:05 pm
by molederek
I wouldn't be surprised if the issue were height. Gyms set routes so that short people don't complain about reaches. They don't care that much about tall people having difficulty with high feet. Outside, especially somewhere like the Red with its infinite supply of feet on most routes, tall people just get to make big reaches from good hold to good hold.

Re: Gym Crushers

Posted: Thu May 05, 2011 3:14 pm
by climb2core
molederek wrote:I wouldn't be surprised if the issue were height. Gyms set routes so that short people don't complain about reaches. They don't care that much about tall people having difficulty with high feet. Outside, especially somewhere like the Red with its infinite supply of feet on most routes, tall people just get to make big reaches from good hold to good hold.
Gonna have to disagree with you. If anything, quite the opposite. In general there are more options outside for shorter people... more intermediates and feet. Inside they are constrained by very few holds/feet and distance is determined by the route setter.

My observations of why some people crush inside but fail outside: (some of these have been said)
1.) They boulder much more than climbing and have power, but little endurance, or even power-endurance. They can climb a hard 30 foot route.... once.
2.) No Head games inside... Bolts are close, routes are set so no dangerous clips, and much of it is done on TR.
3.) Inefficient climbing outside. People don't how to maximize rests, when to climb quickly, fail to use good technique.
4.) Climbing scared outside: over-grip holds, repeat movements due to uncertainty, fail to move quickly through hard stuff, clip low off of shitty holds with bent arms.
5.) Failure to commit. That next bolt is 10 feet away and there is no take halfway...
6.) Inability to read routes leading to more inefficient climbing... or falling.
7.) Poor endurance and ability to recover on jugs.

I never, ever have any of those issues and that is why I am Rock Stud!!!

Re: Gym Crushers

Posted: Thu May 05, 2011 4:06 pm
by pigsteak
That'll be $50 for th therapy session.

Re: Gym Crushers

Posted: Thu May 05, 2011 4:34 pm
by dustonian
Seriously. Boring!!!

Re: Gym Crushers

Posted: Thu May 05, 2011 4:50 pm
by climb2core
dustonian wrote:Ha ha, me too Lee--I climb at least a number grade or sometimes two harder outside. The gym doesn't even feel like climbing to me.
dustonian wrote:I for one know I am not "rock stud"... I flail equally on all varietals.

At least I have an opinion that doesn't change with whatever the cool kid just said, LOL

Re: Gym Crushers

Posted: Thu May 05, 2011 5:09 pm
by bcombs
I think was all just a ploy so that C2C could call his gym buddies out publicly. Yes, you are stronger than them outside. Yes, they know it. Yes, they also know you won't do any of the hard problems in the gym. No, they won't hold it against you in the way you are holding their outside suckage against them. Did we cover it all?