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Re: Trad Apprenticeship
Posted: Thu Apr 07, 2011 11:32 am
by pigsteak
probably X because of rockfall. at 5.4, isnt that still considered a hike with a rope? its not until 5.6 in trad world that folks star to spray about their epics....
Re: Trad Apprenticeship
Posted: Thu Apr 07, 2011 2:01 pm
by TradMike
I wonder how many on here could cruise this route in a day car to car. 26 miles round trip.
North Ridge of Ellingwood Peak 5.6 (1,500 ft) - Wind River Range, WY

Re: Trad Apprenticeship
Posted: Thu Apr 07, 2011 2:06 pm
by dustonian
Anybody who runs a decent amount, enjoys tedium and suffering, and can successfully climb a chossy staircase. I'm going back to that stuff when I retire from actual rock climbing. It is fun, but more of a cardio event than a technical challenge.
Re: Trad Apprenticeship
Posted: Thu Apr 07, 2011 3:25 pm
by clif
i'd like to get a second opinion, maybe some 9 year old girl has time between burns.
Re: Trad Apprenticeship
Posted: Thu Apr 07, 2011 11:14 pm
by TradMike
You laugh, but I have seen a 5.13 sport climber come to tears on a climb like this second one. Don't let the 5.6 lull you in. It has sections of 5.10.
Re: Trad Apprenticeship
Posted: Thu Apr 07, 2011 11:46 pm
by dustonian
Whoa, sounds like you stayed a little "too" true to the ridge! Actually, I'm just talkin shit...I love a good epic slog and ridge scramble...some of my favorite days were 20+ hrs long and spent alone in the Sierra...Palisades, Minarets, Conness, etc. Kinda refreshing to take a break from it now & focus on quality over quantity. Can't wait to go back to it in 7 or 8 years tho... once the arthritis is irreversible.
Anyway,I doubt Lee needs to learn to plug gear on either of those routes, unless he wants to take forever and a day to get up them!
Re: Trad Apprenticeship
Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2011 12:00 am
by One-Fall
@ dustonian: Got a good lesson today from Jeff and Blake. They took me up Yakuza and Redneck Jedi. I can see myself getting HOOKED!
Re: Trad Apprenticeship
Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2011 12:11 am
by dustonian
Nice! Yakuza always looked good to me. What's Redneck Jedi--that mixed route on Solar?
Get out to Indian Creek (the RRG version, not Utah... although that would be nice)...Jim's Dihedral, Fibrulator Direct, or B3 and Vector Trouble at Long Wall.... all choice! Maybe you guys will go repeat Day Tripping soon wink wink...

Re: Trad Apprenticeship
Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2011 12:22 am
by One-Fall
Its the mixed line to the left of Young Jedi at Dark Side. Im easy to please, but this route was AWESOME. Ill definitely look into those routes you listed!
Re: Trad Apprenticeship
Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2011 12:23 am
by dustonian
Oh yeah... that corner. Good huh? Been meaning to get on that. 5.10-5.11ish?