RRC Archives

Ham, so far it's been slow and steady progress. The biggest change I made this year has been where and who I trained with. The training itself hasn't been terribly regimented or disciplined, but I've increased the volume and intensity of the workouts. However, the collective motivation and psyche of training partners have added a lot (thanks guys it's been a lot of fun this year).

I regret not using a hangboard and plan to get on it, now.

Let's hope the weather stays good for a while...

pawilkes wrote: don't judge Ian too harshly, he's a nice guy just not sure how to respond to Andrew's n on-obviously directed viciousness

LOL, thanks for the nice guy thing. Don't worry, Andrew and I understand each other now. He is a skinny,smack talking punk ass kid and I am never-was old man wanna-be climber.

So, now we are all clear. BTW, nice send on Mosaic. But really, should have gone the day I was there

Second year of climbing. I am 32 years old and weigh about 190 lbs. I have been lifting weights in a gym for the last 14 years so I have developed the wrong type of build for climbing. Trained mostly running and biking to loose weight and climbed at the red alot. I lead my first climb of the year that was a 5.7 and now at the end of the year I can send a 5.10c. I realize this does not make me a climber yet so I plan on focusing on a differant training program this winter. I just finished the book, "How to Climb 5.12" and I plan on using the training methods described in the book this winter. I felt I made alot of progress especially mentally. I remember my first lead climb scaring the absolute shit out of me, now when I lead climb I just feel a surge of adrenaline but I feel confident about falling and comfortable on the rock.

milspecmark wrote:I lead my first climb of the year that was a 5.7 and now at the end of the year I can send a 5.10c. I realize this does not make me a climber yet so I plan on focusing on a differant training program this winter.

Common misconception.

Drew, I do almost the exact same thing. I don't get out much in the fall.

Mack5 wrote:

whatahutch wrote: I set my sending date for the last week of October. The day I got out I was the strongest I have ever been in my life (and that was two weeks past the last workout I did).

I got my first 12 send.

Didn't have a bit of endurance though. I was getting pumped on tall 9s and 10s.

Congrats!!!!!! which 12?

Mack, it was Expresso in Muir at the Bowling Alley. The description was just right. I got V4s in the bag so I figured I would give it a shot. All that bouldering I was doing payed off. My foot slipped on the onsight and on my second go I got it clean. The route felt a little soft to me, but I had not done a 12 before on lead.
I was at the Great Arch that same day (before the 12 send) and was pumping on the 9 there. I didn't take any hangs, but half way up I was shaking out on almost every jug there was. Like I said, no endurance all strength. So Expresso was perfect for me to send.

pigsteak wrote:if you are one of the real climbers who commiteed to training this past summer, are you happy with the progress and dividends this fall? If so, what worked. If not, what would you change.

If you did not train, and are now complaining about running out of good temps to send, I've got nothing.

july is for sending; october for drinking.