Kill Bill (training for the pain box)

[the lurkist]

So, Bill sent his Pain Box Philosophy. It is simple idea, but brilliant and, like he says, very motivating. See what you think.

[One-Fall]

beautiful in its simplicity.

Hugh, please tell Bill thanks, and that it will be put to use.

[robert birchell]

Yep, The harder you work the luckier you get.

[caribe]

yeah caribe, muscles remember but the younger you start the better they remember. So for you... I guess you could coin the term muscular alzheimers.

That would be where you are wrong. I was always a ball buster from the age of ~7.

[Silk]

So, Bill sent his Pain Box Philosophy. It is simple idea, but brilliant and, like he says, very motivating. See what you think.

Thanks! That's some thinking outside the proverbial box...

[Silk]

Another thing Bill says, is that most people do not do enough training of shaking out. I've preached this for years, and time and time again I've had people respond, "I know how to recover". I consistently see those same people fall right off what I find is a good rest.

OW, do you think a portion of this is because of you trad background? Placing pieces and stuff seems to make you stop and try to "recover" it seems like to me.

[512OW]

Another thing Bill says, is that most people do not do enough training of shaking out. I've preached this for years, and time and time again I've had people respond, "I know how to recover". I consistently see those same people fall right off what I find is a good rest.

OW, do you think a portion of this is because of you trad background? Placing pieces and stuff seems to make you stop and try to "recover" it seems like to me.

Silk, Not at all. When I started sport climbing, I couldn't get up 5.11. At all. Couldn't get to the chains period. I didn't have the ability to recover on a hold at all. I could get everything back off a good handjam or fistjam, but not on the biggest jug. Up to 5.11, and even alot of 12's, cracks generally have great stances. There are very few 5.10's without a no-hands somewhere. I never really needed to recover on a hold...

Once I came back to climbing, and began sport climbing, I trained specifically for recovery for a couple of years, knowing that the Red required it. In retrospect, I'm sure I overdid that portion of my training, but now I can recover in positions and on holds and angles that most people can't. That certainly helps when the route is 120 feet long and nearly 45 degrees overhanging.

[whatahutch]

I trained specifically for recovery for a couple of years, knowing that the Red required it. In retrospect, I'm sure I overdid that portion of my training

What sort of things did you do to train that aspect. I have been doing my own sort of training. I will boulder a problem then stop on a decent hold and fake the movements of chalking and clipping, but that isn't the same as working on recovering while on a route.

[pigsteak]

traversing until you think you'll puke from the pump, and then hanging on longer.

[512OW]

I trained specifically for recovery for a couple of years, knowing that the Red required it. In retrospect, I'm sure I overdid that portion of my training

What sort of things did you do to train that aspect. I have been doing my own sort of training. I will boulder a problem then stop on a decent hold and fake the movements of chalking and clipping, but that isn't the same as working on recovering while on a route.

I just posted a blog about this at www.powercompanyclimbing.blogspot.com. Hope it helps!