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Re: Sharing my power/strength training plan

Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 3:03 pm
by rjackson
Yea brentucky, now "I" can quit hanging 'em for Pigsteak! Lol...

Re: Sharing my power/strength training plan

Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 6:16 pm
by rockweasel
climb everything open handed....

Re: Sharing my power/strength training plan

Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 9:48 pm
by One-Fall
Mack5 wrote:umm training...whats that??? i just climbed all summer outside....it was fun, and i sent my hardest redpoint during the summer.....hopefully that eqviates to climbing strong in the fall...even tho im not climbing as much outside...

And what are those of us who have a mortgage, insurance and bill supposed to do? We can't all live at the gorge :D

Re: Sharing my power/strength training plan

Posted: Sat Aug 21, 2010 1:38 am
by der uber
Very cool of you to post your info and stir up training conversation. Everyone can benefit from frequent review of their training and find opportunities for improvement.

Re: Sharing my power/strength training plan

Posted: Sat Aug 21, 2010 2:39 pm
by calcify
One-Fall wrote:
Mack5 wrote:umm training...whats that??? i just climbed all summer outside....it was fun, and i sent my hardest redpoint during the summer.....hopefully that eqviates to climbing strong in the fall...even tho im not climbing as much outside...

And what are those of us who have a mortgage, insurance and bill supposed to do? We can't all live at the gorge :D

Train at home. I hear you.

Mebbe try Mike Andersons Rockprodigy thread?

http://www.rockclimbing.com/Articles/Tr ... __258.html


Ray, do you keep track of weight added/subtracted on hangboard routines?

Thx

Re: Sharing my power/strength training plan

Posted: Sat Aug 21, 2010 2:51 pm
by SCIN
Yea, I do keep track of that for the HIT strips and the fingerboard. I removed it from the plan before I posted it since it would differ for everyone.

Re: Sharing my power/strength training plan

Posted: Sun Aug 22, 2010 12:44 am
by pigsteak
got my new Moon Board Thursday. sad to say I can not even pick my feet up off the mat for teh smallest crimps. on the next smallest, I can stand on one foot.

Re: Sharing my power/strength training plan

Posted: Sun Aug 22, 2010 1:54 am
by SCIN
I couldn't hang on the smallest either but now I can hang on them using my lowest 3 fingers for over 10 seconds. I'll probably be able to add weight for those holds soon too. That's what's great about being consistent on it and adding weight as you move through the holds. You get to see obvious progress. It's cool to know that your fingers are getting stronger because there's no technique involved in just hanging on.

Re: Sharing my power/strength training plan

Posted: Sun Aug 22, 2010 2:20 am
by pigsteak
my type of training..no technique. well, I should be a good spokeperson for this board, because I am coming off a six week rehab from shoulder injury, and am now weaker than weak sauce to start. when I crush 5.10 this fall perhaps Ben Moon will give me something for free.