RRC Archives

ND Clee, clifton said it best when he said it could happen to any one of us. It can and does. Don't take any of these rants personal. We just needed something to get fired up about. The people actually involved are unimportant so long as we can argue ad nauseum about nothing. I hope you stay with us and enjoy the fun.

ND Clee - I'm really appreciating you. You sound like an awesome gal.

ND Clee wrote:Here, let me solve this for you. 100% MY FAULT. That would be me, the climber who fell, accepted responsibility that it was MY hand slipping off the hold while I went to clip the rope into the draw I hung, which subsequently led to my decking, et. al.

Got it.

It's my fault. I was having an astral projection conversation with Pigsteak about the Money thread and disrupted the balance of the force, which rippled through the PMRP as I was hanging on a rope at the lode. Noticed I said hanging, not climbing.

The ripple caused Drive By to bend slightly which threw off ND Clee's balance. This is also the reason she landed away from the wall. The bend was at least 6 feet, which makes total sense to me now.

What sucks is that the bend opened a temporary portal where two crew members on the Zirulian ship slipped through into our dimension. I'm sure by now they are trying to siphon the oil from the wells on the PMRP because on Kordalla there is no more fossil fuel of any kind. This is mostly due to the invention of the Kordallian H2 which got .0025 miles to the gallon. However, it did stand 46 feet tall.

Placing the first bolt higher is done with the intention of it being it stick clipped and greatly reduces the possibility of groundfall from the second bolt in many different cases.

(If the first bolt is at 10 feet and the second is anywhere from 12-15 feet you still risk a groundfall with slack and the dynamic nature of a belay. If the first bolt is 15-20 feet and the second is anywhere form 20-25 that risk is far less)

To abandon modern bolting principles, ie high first bolts, because some climbers dont come with stickclips is ridiculous... Just like trad gear is required to lead unbolted routes and cracks a stick clip is quickly becoming a necessary piece of safety equipment. You wouldn't try to climb a given route without a harness or a rope, why would you do it without adequate protection from groundfall?

If routes are developed with low first bolts by the time you get to the second bolt you are back in groundfall territory again so the safety of that first bolt is negated anyway.

I dont feel bad for the climbers that cannot repel because the only belay device they have is a grigri and i think, in my honest opinion, that a stick clip is an essential piece of equipment for the everyday sportclimber, just like an ATC, harness, rope and draws.

Added to that the fact that you can use a stickclip to: aid up routes, protect otherwise unprotected areas, retrieve gear from the wall in the event you have to bail and many other things in addition to the fact that they are cheap as all hell and it seems like a simple decision.

Bottom line is:

If you dont feel comfortable with the level of difficulty or safety you shouldnt do it.

If you dont have/want a stickclip, and cant use a tree limb or other readily available, free materials then take a pass on that given route for the day.

Lastly I truly hope all effected parties, climber, belayer, and onlookers are doing well and moving forward. (also i am sorry that i even voted on this poll topic, i thought it was something else entirely.)

Have Fun, Climb Safe

if anything in bonner1040's post is news you need to seek professional help.

BCombs. That shits hilarious. Now excuse me while I go clear my nose of whiskey.

clif wrote:if anything in bonner1040's post is news you need to seek professional help.

Like that of redpoint

Wow! What a mouthful Bonner!

I can only agree with the first and last line. As for the body of your post, thank god you don't actually get to lay down any of its dogma.