RRC Archives

climbed at looking glass a year ago or so and by the time we finished the rap to the final set of anchors, Fox Mtn Guides had a TR on every route below us. We had to pendulum 40ft or so just to get to a set of rings to reach the ground. I bet they had 12+ routes set up on TR with 20 or 30 kids running around the base. pain in the ass. it's everywhere. the sport has exploded due to gyms... this is why when I head to the Red during busy days (i.e. weekends) I tend to gravitate towards the more obscure trad walls. went to long wall on friday and didn't run into a single climber all day long.... it was hard to believe that a route as beautful as rock wars went all day on a beautiful warm spring friday without getting sent.

hush man there is no trad climbing in the red......

I wouldn't get used to that clifton, long wall is extremely hit or miss, though usually not overrun with large groups.

the beauty of long wall is that even if there are 4 cars in the pull off, chances are all groups will be in the rock wars/autumn pit all day. which leaves quite a few superb lines to yourselves.

quite true, which reminds me ahab, when are we going back.

I've definitely seen people waiting in line at long wall too... That's kinda what we expected approaching the parking area, only to find not a single car.

I can climb any day of the week in the S.R. and never see any one climbing. I'll see their cars. I'll hear them off in the distance but I'll never have to climb with them unless I want to.

ahab wrote:word on the street is that they're into being corn-holed now.

Well then they've come to the right place in good ole' Kentuck. Just the wrong county cuz I'd guess it's much more painful to do a Dry county.

You know what chaps me is the climbing camps that gyms bring down. For profit groups that bring a huge cadre of adolescents and park them at the base. It is difficult for the group organizers to disperse because MV doesn't allow this (rightly so) and a FS requires a hefty fee to guide. The PMRP and Lode are the only option and of course that is were they go.
Do I begrudge these organizers the opportunity to make a buck on the backs of the altruism of others- yea. Especially when it burdens everyone else at the who might be interested in using the cliff on the day they influx.
What would dampen my ire would be knowing these groups are tithing a healthy percentage of their income of said trips to the RRGCC. That would only be right.

the lurkist wrote:
What would dampen my ire would be knowing these groups are tithing a healthy percentage of their income of said trips to the RRGCC. That would only be right.

i cant agree more......or even a labor exchange to help the areas they are using. a large % of guide services/large groups/schools coming to the area often do not give back at all..