The truth has been spoken. Remember everyone, 1st try means the 1st time you tried to send. Therefore you can work out the moves, hang draws, and practice many times, and still do a route first try.bcombs wrote:What gear? The draws aren't already hanging? In that case it doesn't count as a repoint try anyway... you're just hanging the draws.
Sending
Living the dream
Why the hell would someone even want to toprope in the first place? It's the worst experience in the world. Is leading a sport climb really that dangerous? Oh boy, if you fall you may fall 10 feet!!!! Holy SHIT! 10 or maybe 15 feet! Oh my god!
When toproping often the climber has the chance to get a slight rest by sinking their hips down while resting on a jug which creates tension in the rope. Honest climbers will pull out the slack but I've seen some be dishonest with themselves and take advantage of it.
When toproping often the climber has the chance to get a slight rest by sinking their hips down while resting on a jug which creates tension in the rope. Honest climbers will pull out the slack but I've seen some be dishonest with themselves and take advantage of it.
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!
-Horatio
-Horatio
I've actually read advice from many good climbers on doing this on lead. Just clip that bolt or cam above you, and sink down for a rest...totally legit.SCIN wrote:
When toproping often the climber has the chance to get a slight rest by sinking their hips down while resting on a jug which creates tension in the rope. Honest climbers will pull out the slack but I've seen some be dishonest with themselves and take advantage of it.
Mike Doyle mentions this in a training article. The idea is not to have the rope tight, your belayer should actually have a little loop out. Your just using gravity to your benefit. Instead of the weight of the rope pulling you down, if it is unclipped, it is pulling you up (if you have a bolt above you clipped). Hell if I can tell the difference when I am shaking out, but I always liked the idea.pkananen wrote:I've actually read advice from many good climbers on doing this on lead. Just clip that bolt or cam above you, and sink down for a rest...totally legit.SCIN wrote:
When toproping often the climber has the chance to get a slight rest by sinking their hips down while resting on a jug which creates tension in the rope. Honest climbers will pull out the slack but I've seen some be dishonest with themselves and take advantage of it.
i never would have thought of that if it weren't for this post... screw it... i'm not gonna clip anything anymore just to be "honest".chriss wrote:
Mike Doyle mentions this in a training article. The idea is not to have the rope tight, your belayer should actually have a little loop out. Your just using gravity to your benefit. Instead of the weight of the rope pulling you down, if it is unclipped, it is pulling you up (if you have a bolt above you clipped). Hell if I can tell the difference when I am shaking out, but I always liked the idea.
The only true sends are free solo.
And on the third day, God created the Red River Gorge(by conjecture), and he saw that it was good.
fuck it all. do what you want. i feel like i am cheating myself if i dont grab the draw while i am clipping... i want to get to the top (or where the FA put the two bolts next to each other). the point is to get from point A to point B, right???? fuck style! use whatever you can; aiders, wooden ladder, grapplin' hooks, your friend pulling your ass up from the ground (TR'ing) or whatever else you can think of. START SENDING MOTHER FUC'ERS!
I don't have haters, I have fans in denial.