RRC Archives

bcombs wrote:What gear? The draws aren't already hanging? In that case it doesn't count as a repoint try anyway... you're just hanging the draws.

The truth has been spoken. Remember everyone, 1st try means the 1st time you tried to send. Therefore you can work out the moves, hang draws, and practice many times, and still do a route first try.

bcombs wrote: repoint try anyway... :

just when i thought a redpoint toprope send was impossible...
now we have repoints

Why the hell would someone even want to toprope in the first place? It's the worst experience in the world. Is leading a sport climb really that dangerous? Oh boy, if you fall you may fall 10 feet!!!! Holy SHIT! 10 or maybe 15 feet! Oh my god!

When toproping often the climber has the chance to get a slight rest by sinking their hips down while resting on a jug which creates tension in the rope. Honest climbers will pull out the slack but I've seen some be dishonest with themselves and take advantage of it.

SCIN wrote:
When toproping often the climber has the chance to get a slight rest by sinking their hips down while resting on a jug which creates tension in the rope. Honest climbers will pull out the slack but I've seen some be dishonest with themselves and take advantage of it.

I've actually read advice from many good climbers on doing this on lead. Just clip that bolt or cam above you, and sink down for a rest...totally legit.

That's funny. Yea, legit if you are trying to trick your butt buddies into thinking you're strong when you really aren't.

SCIN wrote:That's funny. Yea, legit if you are trying to trick your butt buddies into thinking you're strong when you really aren't.

Isn't that what climbing is all about?

pkananen wrote:

SCIN wrote:
When toproping often the climber has the chance to get a slight rest by sinking their hips down while resting on a jug which creates tension in the rope. Honest climbers will pull out the slack but I've seen some be dishonest with themselves and take advantage of it.

I've actually read advice from many good climbers on doing this on lead. Just clip that bolt or cam above you, and sink down for a rest...totally legit.

Mike Doyle mentions this in a training article. The idea is not to have the rope tight, your belayer should actually have a little loop out. Your just using gravity to your benefit. Instead of the weight of the rope pulling you down, if it is unclipped, it is pulling you up (if you have a bolt above you clipped). Hell if I can tell the difference when I am shaking out, but I always liked the idea.

chriss wrote:
Mike Doyle mentions this in a training article. The idea is not to have the rope tight, your belayer should actually have a little loop out. Your just using gravity to your benefit. Instead of the weight of the rope pulling you down, if it is unclipped, it is pulling you up (if you have a bolt above you clipped). Hell if I can tell the difference when I am shaking out, but I always liked the idea.

i never would have thought of that if it weren't for this post... screw it... i'm not gonna clip anything anymore just to be "honest".

The only true sends are free solo.

fuck it all. do what you want. i feel like i am cheating myself if i dont grab the draw while i am clipping... i want to get to the top (or where the FA put the two bolts next to each other). the point is to get from point A to point B, right???? fuck style! use whatever you can; aiders, wooden ladder, grapplin' hooks, your friend pulling your ass up from the ground (TR'ing) or whatever else you can think of. START SENDING MOTHER FUC'ERS!

Wrong website man.