RRC Archives

as a beginner, i enjoyed pistol ridge. the 5.7 & 5.8 are good for people who are afraid of heights. plus there's a walk up beside the 5.8 where you can take pictures. the 5.9 offers a great view for those who want to go up higher. the 5.10 was too difficult for me as a beginner though.

if you lead trad, i also enjoyed the 2 5.7's 7 5.8 at dip wall. i went up there as part of a larger beginner group one day when it rained. it's quiet and out of the way and stays dry.

animal crackers wall is also a good beginner place. i hardly see people there since it's not in the guidebook. it's got several slabs under 5.9.

beware of princess arch - tried to go there as a beginner to set up TRs like it says in the guide book. couldn't find the walk down and wasn't sure which route was which from the top. we ended up going elsewhere.

If you lead trad Dip Wall would be a good choice. Anywhere back in the FS land would be good with a large group (except Military or Left Flank of course).

Dip wall has lots of good stuff. just keep working your way right. you won't do a third of them with a big group. ! fist 2 fist is sweeeet.

tsparks,

Since all of these guys are being assholes to you,I'll tell you what I'll do for you. I have a house in Zachariah that I'll comp you guys for one night (Saturday,night). If you can get it in before the end of march. I'll take you guys out Saturday day and drive you around in my six passenger F-250 to all of the cool kid crags. We can bust up in amongst them with boom boxes and cases of bud (bottles of course!) Just let me know a couple of days before hand so I can go around to all of the local selters and pick up every stray fucking mutt that I can so we can "release the hounds" as soon as we come upon any other climbers. I think ten or twelve dogs off leash should suffice.

i'd join that fun.


pistol ridge, really nice spot and if any one does gear the more thats open.
and if they are able to scramble, the cave up top gives a nice view, prolly the best choice. just pick up your garbage and others if you see it.
dip wall, solar on the far right side, i want to say eagle point was not too bad to set tr's on, from the ledge, anyone remember bett er than me.

anticlmber wrote: i want to say eagle point was not too bad to set tr's on, from the ledge, anyone remember bett er than me.

Nope, the trees that you TR from are all dead looking now. Wouldn't want to take anyone there that I cared about living. Even if there are some really cool moderate face climbs and a great view. Interesting hike in, nice sunny ledge. No other chuffers around most of the time. Yep, would avoid that area for sure. Practice wall is where you want to be.

eagle point was fun, but there's a lot of rope drag and it was awkward being lowered down because i was in a chimney for part of it. i personally liked the climbing there, but it might not be very good if it's someone's first time ever. it seems most people are pretty good going up, but when it's their first time, they don't like to come down. and if there's only 1 competent climber, he would have to belay from above and they wouldn't have him to help them figure out what holds to grab.

So...what's the difference between a group of 6 tying up a route vs 3 "acceptable" groups of two waiting for something?

Wes wrote:

anticlmber wrote: i want to say eagle point was not too bad to set tr's on, from the ledge, anyone remember bett er than me.

Nope, the trees that you TR from are all dead looking now.

When i went with Jessie we set up a belay using pro. in the crack on the ledge. I don't remember using a tree.

Josephine wrote:

Wes wrote:

anticlmber wrote: i want to say eagle point was not too bad to set tr's on, from the ledge, anyone remember bett er than me.

Nope, the trees that you TR from are all dead looking now.

When i went with Jessie we set up a belay using pro. in the crack on the ledge. I don't remember using a tree.

There are/were several trees on the ledge, or the next little ledge up. With a bunch of webbing, or a couple sections of static line, you can set up maybe 5-6 fun, under 5.9 face climbs, without climbing or lowering in the little chimney feature. If this wall was bolted, it would be one of the most visited in the red, no doubt. It does get hot in the summer though!