Free Soloing. What is your view?

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mike_a_lafontaine
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Post by mike_a_lafontaine »

I think the purest form of anything would be it's first form. Therefore to have the purest form of climbing, you have to know why the first person every climbed and how. My suspicion was that a rather large-ass bear was chasing him with malice in it's mind and his only escape was to climb yonder cliff. So unless there is a pissed off, 800 pound cave bear waiting for you at the bottom, you're not climbing pure!

Fortunately for me, my buddy's aunt has a friend who works with a lady that has a nephew that runs an animal preserve and we borrow a bear every time we climb and wack it a few times over the head with a golf club right before we climb. Sure, it's only a black bear, but it's pretty pissed off, so I'd say we climb as close to pure can be.
Brentucky
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Post by Brentucky »

Sandman wrote:I know everyone will attack my little list right down to a minor spelling error on punctuation mistake. So thank you in advance.
You typed on instead of or.

Other than that your little list is near perfecto so far as I'm concerned.
efil lanrete... i enjoy the sound, but in truth i find this seductively backward idea to be quite frightening
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ahab
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Post by ahab »

Sandman wrote:5. Realize the danger and consequences of the given route(i.e. loose rock, downclimbing) and make your choice carefully.
there should be a space after the word "route".
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Clevis Hitch
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Post by Clevis Hitch »

You guys are total jackasses...every fucking one of you!! Rules for fucking free soloing! What next, rules for climbing? How about a fucking bus stop outside every fucking crag and and a bleachers so soccer moms sitting in the stands can cheer on little jimmy..Buncha fucks!!

So what if somebodys fifteen year old kid sees this thread or hears one of you fucks talking about how cool it is to free solo. Or better yet, Sees one of those stupid videos and thinks thats just superfuckinghero and goes out and kills himself!!

Just to show you stupid fucks how jackass you are....your biggest concern wasn't for the kids safet.y It was," Don't do it in a place that if you fall it will shut down climbing for you!"

I'm not saying you don't have the freedom to solo. I'm saying its very irresponsible to discuss it. And the idiot fuck who comes up with "rules" for free soloing is a fucking idiot! Are you saying that if I follow these rules it the formula for success? What about rock breaking or wasps,snakes or a million other things that can and do go wrong! I'm not sure that the "rules" you posted don't make you open for liable. You know that any sons mother is going to latch on to any way of blaming someone else for their sons death! You'd make the perfect law suit. Defending your stupid fucking list in court. If you've any sense about you at all you'll erase that stupid fucking list,
(1) go into your bathroom run a warm bath
(2)climb inside
(3)Slit your wrists (long ways, so that if anyone finds you before you die they wont be able to save you and you'll still bleed out)
(4)Just before you pass out start the tub draining.(So we don't have to clean up your mess.)

One more note; wear some underwear. No one wants to see your undersized shriveled up cock cause then they'll know why you killed yourself and why you were a big fan of soloing...just trying to prove to the world that you were still a man even with your "handicap".
If you give a man a match, he'll be warm for a minute. If you set him on fire, he'll be warm for the rest of his life!
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caribe
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Post by caribe »

ynp1 wrote: weber, you think my feelings on free soloing would change if i saw a dead body?
Yes, they probably would. When you are singing the praises of fee soloing you are basically singing the praises of gambling. In each solo climb you are gambling the farm, there are so many factors beyond your control including but not limited to * rock breakage, * slimy spots, * sudden appearance of wildlife (rats snakes ect), cramps, sneezes or other burps in body function, * weather, forgetting the move. The elemental of risk does not purify climbing. Pure climbing is knowing your craft to keep yourself as safe as possible while having a challenging experience.
â™  As climbers we challenge ourselves to climb harder. If you try more difficult routes you WILL FALL over and over again. If you are not protected during these falls you will die. What the fuck is the point of backing off the difficulty to increase the risk?
â™  Even though you are 100% on all other counts. If though you are as kool as a cucumber at the crux with a caterpillar in your eye, there is NO WAY you can predict how fragile a particular piece of rock is.

I totally agree with Clevis' undecorated opinion about free soloing. Aping that idiotic litany about climbing purity is a mentally vacant perspective.
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ReachHigh
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Post by ReachHigh »

Screw purity, I just want to enjoy a pizza and beer afterwords with only minor injuries.
"there's a line between self improvement and self involvement"
"Dogs are nature's pooper scoopers ."
JR
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Post by JR »

caribe wrote: Purest form of rock climbing? I hope you know that this statement is more opinion than fact. What the hell does pure rock climbing even mean?
caribe wrote: Pure climbing is knowing your craft to keep yourself as safe as possible while having a challenging experience.
TradMike
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Post by TradMike »

Does anyone remember the death on Caver's? It was a solo gone wrong about 10 years ago.
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Ascentionist
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Post by Ascentionist »

In high school (early 90s) a friend routinely "climbed Chimney Top" after rappelling sessions at Half Moon. I'd heard of him doing this and since I wanted to try "rock climbing" I asked him to take me next time he went.

So he and I bushwhacked to the base and I followed him (both of us solo) up what I later found out to be Chimney's Chimney.

I've never been back up that route, and despite it being a profound experience in my life I would never recreate it.

A few months later a different friend and I soloed the north face of the northern-most See Rock on South Fork. It was January, there was snow on all the ledges and there was a point of aid: yarding on a hunk of cable that dangled from the sky. When we got to the trees I discovered the relatively new cable was clamped to an ancient rope of rust looped around a tree. We had to downclimb the same route to get down.

That route I returned to with rope, belayer and pro and found it to go at 5.7X as a more experience climber. Then a few years after that I placed a bolt on lead whilst roped soloing the route and still deemed it 5.7R/X, but at least I could rappel off...

For some reason non-climbers who want to try the sport seem to be drawn to lines that climber shun...dirty chimneys, wide cracks, rhodo scrambles...

Now, free-soloing an established route on good rock that is within my ability, knowing the consequences and knowing my abilities...that is a different animal. I call that calculated risk (thanks Dave Chenault) and it is different from ignorantly climbing yourself into danger.

My Chimney Top experience was bathed in fear. I was scared out of my mind at the top of that route. Free soloing Big Country under a full moon? Not so much...
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ahab
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Post by ahab »

TradMike wrote:Does anyone remember the death on Caver's? It was a solo gone wrong about 10 years ago.
is this true?
how/where on that route does a fall = death?
at the bolt?
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