Ender and I had an epic adventure yesterday and it is pretty dang sweet out there.
You can park down a rough road on the right (space for 2 cars) .1 miles off the FS road to keep from drawing attention. The boulders are not very hidden overall and I hope nobody does anything stupid which would close the area. There is easily 50 problems at Mainside, mostly above my ability but very inspiring, and very sharp
I took the online info for Mainside and Back Side and added some mileage to the directions to help clear things up, as well as moved the pictures around and formatted it to a 9 page word document. if anyone wants a copy pm me and I'll email you one. Great find it's pretty awesome tissue tendon and friends opened it up to the climbing public!!
"well Sco doesn't have my peripheral vision" - mason allen reminding us all that our peripheral vision often overlooks creepy crawlers and flying things.
A lot of this stuff is in privately owned land and people need to keep a really low profile and be polite to the locals or access could be threatened. I think pigsteak has started making contact with some of the locals and working his piggy charms on them, but it will take time.
yeah, I have started talking to one guy, so let's be super cool until we get it all worked out. the mainside boulders are very visible, but so far locals have not minded. pick up after yourself, don't be screaming and swearing at the top of your lungs, and like shamis said....be polite to anyone who questions you.
pigsteak wrote:pick up after yourself, don't be screaming and swearing at the top of your lungs, and like shamis said....be polite to anyone who questions you.
If access issues do get worked out positively I suggest we have a low key trail day ASAP. From what I could find there are no trails around there, and nothing tears up an area like a bunch of people running around trampling vegetation looking for rocks.
there is a trail to Boulder One from the little road which heads down towards Mainside. and there should still be a trail connecting up most of the Mainside Boulders (from Boulder One to Pherman Shoto Roof).
but the newer stuff further left is a washout of leaves, and getting to Backside could use some trail action as well. i might start on the latter today.
Ah, nothing like full scale development and internet guides to privately owned land without prior permission to be there. But, if the bouldering is good, then that makes it OK. Right?
Wes wrote:Ah, nothing like full scale development and internet guides to privately owned land without prior permission to be there. But, if the bouldering is good, then that makes it OK. Right?
you raise a good point. you could've shortened it up by saying "hi, i think you are a selfish prick", but despite your delicate language you still hold at least one of my feet to the 'moral' fire.
to be honest, once the area was found it was really a matter of time before the finder had to make a decision: tell zero people or tell one person. having decided on the latter meant eventually there would be more than one person. and like a virus this number would continue to rise. you might disagree with the decision to open a guide, but the difference between telling one person and publishing an online guide is really only a matter of scale. in fact, the guide idea was hatched to reduce the chance we "lost" the area by directing people to less obtrusive parking as well as other DBNF areas.
maybe i'm wrong, but it certainly wasn't done without calculation and it certainly isn't going to be mended by hilariously condescending finger-wagging.
All well and good, but you act like those are to only two choices, both involve continuing to boulder and develop. How about option 3: Stop bouldering there until you have solid access with the land owners worked out. Tell no one, and don't even go there yourself until it is legit. That would be the right way.
tbwilsonky wrote:
Wes wrote:Ah, nothing like full scale development and internet guides to privately owned land without prior permission to be there. But, if the bouldering is good, then that makes it OK. Right?
you raise a good point. you could've shortened it up by saying "hi, i think you are a selfish prick", but despite your delicate language you still hold at least one of my feet to the 'moral' fire.
to be honest, once the area was found it was really a matter of time before the finder had to make a decision: tell zero people or tell one person. having decided on the latter meant eventually there would be more than one person. and like a virus this number would continue to rise. you might disagree with the decision to open a guide, but the difference between telling one person and publishing an online guide is really only a matter of scale. in fact, the guide idea was hatched to reduce the chance we "lost" the area by directing people to less obtrusive parking as well as other DBNF areas.
maybe i'm wrong, but it certainly wasn't done without calculation and it certainly isn't going to be mended by hilariously condescending finger-wagging.
