RRC Archives

round and round we go.

Did someone already ask if it's cool to talk about an outside route if you're in a gym? Seems so obvious, maybe I just missed it. Strong gym rats have feelings too!

True story... I saw an friend at the gym who asked "What are you working on". Without thinking I spouted off the current project at the gorge. Never crossed my mind to work something at the gym. Since then, that is about all I do.

Brentucky wrote:Did someone already ask if it's cool to talk about an outside route if you're in a gym? Seems so obvious, maybe I just missed it. Strong gym rats have feelings too!

I talk more about climbing outside at the gym than I do anywhere else (which isn't very much, cus we all know people don't want to hear it), I would rather be outside and the gym is getting me stronger to go outside, the opposite is not true. Patxi may be a badass, but I don't see the point.

krampus, don't act like you think there is a point to anything a person doesn't think there is a point to; i know you better than that. paxti's point is to be the best at what he does, seems pretty good to me.

Flipping this on its head.

I was talking about climbing routes at CT in Cincy and someone asked me "Doesn't climbing routes make you weak?" I had to admit in the short term it did. I tried to explain that maybe climbing routes would eventually help his gym climbing. He seemed excited about this possibility. His reply. "Maybe I'll try that".

Brentucky wrote:paxti's point is to be the best at what he does, seems pretty good to me.

Something I have been curious about though. Does anyone know what the difficulty of the world cup route tends to be? Is it even 5.14?

The reason I ask is that Paxti's training is the only thing that would work for Paxti's goal, to win a world cup. Sharma, Andrada, etc... are strong dudes. But, they work hard, sometimes 100's of attempts, to send these 5.15's. However, Paxti gets one shot to onsight the route and win the cup, or all that training is for nothing.

I guess what I'm saying is that at first glance I thought all the training Paxti did was way overboard, but he has one chance to do it, not 100's. I wonder what Paxti's onsight ability is outside.

I used to be very shy about stick clips, talking about gym climbing, clipping bolts, matching draws and low end climbing shoes. I was very aware of all things gumby at the crag. Ironically, I thought that sneaking around climbing every dirty ass 5.7 corner in the Red was real climbing. Gear climbing at obscure crags was real climbing. It is and it isn't. Eventually, I started to not really care about any of it. I unabashedly do all these things now. I embrace doing gumby shit. It is good for a laugh. My favorite days climbing are not necessarily filled with the most sends for me and my cohorts, it is filled with laughter.

bcombs wrote: I wonder what Paxti's onsight ability is outside.

I could care less until he tries, then I might say "damn", but more likely I won't hear about it cus I'll be climbing outside myself.

JR wrote:I used to be very shy about stick clips, talking about gym climbing, clipping bolts, matching draws and low end climbing shoes.

I know all about low end climbing shoes, my brand new mad rock are doing just fine. Its a poor workman who blames his tools anyway.