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rustyvasectomy wrote:nagypapa is harder than most of the 14s at the red. way harder than gods own stone for instance.

but it is also much better than god's own

rustyvasectomy wrote:nagypapa is harder than most of the 14s at the red. way harder than gods own stone for instance.

Thanks for your vote of confidence, but I think these comparisons of which route is harder than which just comes down to what your strengths and weaknesses are. I usually do better on bouldery routes, so I thought it would suit me, but I guess it's a little too bouldery. It sure has cool moves though.

after this weekend, I expect some updates. keep us motivated folks. anyone out there have goals a bit more "normal"? anyone looking to lead their first trad line or redpoint their first 11a? what are you doing to get there?

I am just trying to make Justin Riddell happy, so far its a project I don't think I will ever do.

pigsteak wrote:after this weekend, I expect some updates. keep us motivated folks. anyone out there have goals a bit more "normal"? anyone looking to lead their first trad line or redpoint their first 11a? what are you doing to get there?

Yeah, I'd like to redpoint my first 11a. Feel free to throw out any suggestions.

To get there, and this is really more of my substantive 'goal' right now, I'm getting mileage on as many 10's as I can. I put together a pretty big list of 10's, along with a few 9's and a few 11's that I'm SLOWLY ticking off. Aside from that I've been dividing my time between climb time and rock quest during the week, some yoga, eating well, and trying not to drink a ton of beer.

The problem is there's so much good beer this time of year.

Another goal of mine is to not suck at/hate slab. I must admit I've kind of put this one on the back burner.

never mind.

When I started looking for my first 11a there was no question. My partner said it HAD to be Bandolier. The definitive 11a, no questions about it being soft. Do Bandolier and the rest will come. (Plus, Torrent was still open and it was a great approach.) I worked and worked that route. It was not my first 11a though.

My first 11a was Air-Ride Equipped in Muir (which I still think is a cool route). Another good 11a is Whipstocking at Drive-By.

I did finally nail Bandolier one crisp morning. I was going to hang the draws as the warm-up, but each one felt better than the last until I was at the crux. I just kept climbing and it clicked. It was also first time I lowered from a route psyched, but quiet and content. It was a grand self-accomplishment that needed no words. The project was put to bed and it was time to move on.

I guess my goal would be to actually "project" a route... since about every route I've ever climbed I onsighted or hung dog the shit out of it. Sometimes I wonder what grade I could climb if I made it a project.

How do you sleep at night?

cliftongifford wrote:Sometimes I wonder what grade I could climb if I made it a project.

I project routes on my home wall. When I go somewhere to climb on rock I climb within my grade, if I try something harder I usually just flail around and get pissed off.